Thread: Oiling your razor

I just ordered some Camellia oil too. Found 2oz on Amazon for $7. Includes shipping with Amazon Prime.

Originally Posted by KYPHILIP

Should I go with the WD-40 then for my SR (Kidding)? Seriously, I do use that on the threads of my DE but am using mineral oil on the SR. I'll look into ballistol oil. Camellia oil looks pricey so far. Where do you buy it for $7.00?
From a red throated Kentuckian.

It's still on sale at Amazon for $7 (2 oz bottle) - Greenhealth Camellia 100% Pure Oil, ships/sold by Greenals. Free shipping

Originally Posted by JohnnyC

It's still on sale at Amazon for $7 (2 oz bottle) - Greenhealth Camellia 100% Pure Oil, ships/sold by Greenals. Free shipping

I just ordered some as well. It should last a long time.

I oil a razor after each use.

I use Ballistol because I have about 2 quarts of it for gun and general use; and it emulsifies with water. Emulsifying with water is a nice feature since it is usually very humid where I live and I do a bit of canoeing, hiking, etc...

Most oils should work just fine.

I rinse my blade with hot water, wipe then blow out the pivot from the back side. then lay it on my sink towel and just fold a corner over it that doesn't cover the scales to that I will not forget it is in the towel.

I clean all my shaving stuff and then get to back to the razor. I use an applicator mixed with Billistoal and Camelia oil.



Works very well and has kept all my razors like new. Oxidation will still take place but in at very minimal level and nothing that a polishing compound will take off at each honing session.

Take Care,
Richard

Anyone use vasoline?

I heard one person, I think a senior member, say he only oils his razor if it is going into storage(out of rotation). I have been using a light coating of mineral oil and then removing it with an alcohol wipe before stropping. I've stopped oiling at this point. Still don't know which way to go on this. I thoroughly dry it as well as inside and outside the scales, then I give it about 50 on the leather side of the strop. I want to avoid any oxidation and it is stored out of bathroom.
Anyway, I'm still learning and had an "ahah" moment shaving my neck. It was successful using angled strokes first WTG/XTG and ATG. This required a very light touch and with the spine almost flat. It felt good that I missed my jugular! Seriously, this was the first time in that area with minimal irritation/redness. It felt good. Used Nivea shave balm followed by Palmers Cocoa Butter lotion.
Thanks for any input you have!
KYPHILIP

Originally Posted by KYPHILIP

I heard one person, I think a senior member, say he only oils his razor if it is going into storage(out of rotation). I have been using a light coating of mineral oil and then removing it with an alcohol wipe before stropping. I've stopped oiling at this point. Still don't know which way to go on this. I thoroughly dry it as well as inside and outside the scales, then I give it about 50 on the leather side of the strop. I want to avoid any oxidation and it is stored out of bathroom.
Anyway, I'm still learning and had an "ahah" moment shaving my neck. It was successful using angled strokes first WTG/XTG and ATG. This required a very light touch and with the spine almost flat. It felt good that I missed my jugular! Seriously, this was the first time in that area with minimal irritation/redness. It felt good. Used Nivea shave balm followed by Palmers Cocoa Butter lotion.
Thanks for any input you have!
KYPHILIP

A light coating of mineral oil should not damage a strop.
Wiping with a clean fold of bathroom tissue (without alcohol)
should be sufficient for stropping and shaving.

I like it when I rinse my razor and see water bead up
when I rinse my razor prior to shaving but the layer of
oil is invisible otherwise.

I personally would skip the alcohol because it tends to leave
the steel bare to air and that encourages rust.

One thing with steel is that it will develop a patina
of uniform thin oxidation on a razor used
day in and day out. That patina can help protect
the steel as it does on old school steel kitchen
knives.

Regarding kitchen knives... It is not uncommon to
take a new knife and slice fruit with it. After each
thin slice the blade is rinsed in hot water and wiped
dry. The acid of the fruit tarnishes the steel leaving
a grey patina. If you eat the first couple slices
they have a mineral taste and smell. By the time
I get half the way through a lemon the metallic taste and
smell is gone and it is time to make a lemonade from
the last half.

One of the reasons we recommend mineral oil is that
it is quite safe. It can even be used in small amounts
as a post shave balm to calm a razor burn.

Should you spot a bit of rust, tissue paper is often
abrasive enough when dry and can then be used to
apply a thin layer of mineral oil. If clean paper is not
sufficient a mild polish like MAAS or Simichome will do
the trick most times.

Some folk apply Renaissance wax to protect the large
polished surfaces and let their strop naturally apply a thin
layer of strop dressing to clean and protect the edge.

Having said this, what works for you is fine.
There are many ways to skin a cat as they say....

Thanks for this advice. I just applied mineral oil to my SR and after time for it to penetrate, I wiped off the excess with tissue.
I appeciate it!
KYPHILIP

No one but me who uses olive oil?
Aint got too much to compare to since it's been working out good for me, no need to change