Results 11 to 20 of 23
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02-01-2012, 06:08 PM #11
Joining in to read AF's reply as I am curious about this as well!
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02-01-2012, 06:27 PM #12
If linen dulls the edge linen strops would be non-existent.
@OP: are you sure you keep the strop taut, do not apply too much pressure on the strop and have the entire blade flat on linen and leather? If not you destroy the edge the stones put on.Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.
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02-01-2012, 07:37 PM #13
With a synthetic edge I could keep razors shaving with leather alone. Linen seems compulsory for coticule edges and jnat edges you can shave right off the hone.
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02-01-2012, 07:49 PM #14
This is my concern, first, although an excellent honing, fresh of the stone is pretty fragile in general too. This is part of why linen isn't recommended in barber's manuals after honing. It's the beginner that I'm mostly concerned with. The linen is the only step in this posters progression that stood out.
The other problem I worry about is that a lot of people use the word " linen " and then when I see the material it's not really linen it's some form of rough canvas. Strops used for roughing are better saved for after the edge has settled a bit (my opinion).
I'm on an IPad now so sometimes I forget to make it clear that the advice I give out only applies to the thread Im on and only to the OP. Linen, by itself and used correctly has a useful purpose.Last edited by AFDavis11; 02-01-2012 at 07:51 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to AFDavis11 For This Useful Post:
pinklather (02-02-2012)
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02-01-2012, 08:10 PM #15
I have a few Qs:
1) Please describe your facial hair, especially your estimation in comparison to other men.
2) What is your average beard preparation (pre-shave routine) like?
3) Is your Norton Flattening stone itself actually flat?
christophe: I hate all those tests you've referred to, I prefer to use visual analysis (magnification) to understand what is going on and hope the OP is doing well with his 60x, rather than get lost in some tests (which may not be suited for him).
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02-01-2012, 08:42 PM #16
Its not been mentioned yet, but off an 8k you can get a good shave ready razor thats capable of chopping through most beard types. After bevel setting your mostly making it more comfortable by polishing.
I agree with AxelH; too many tests can get in the way... BUT trial and error is the only way to determine what ones are right for you, and you'll need markers to determine where the edge is, whether its feel, acoustic feedback, how easy it cuts armhair(skin level and above skin level)
try dulling the edge on a glass tumbler or something and start again, bevel setting on the 4k will take longer than on a 1k but keep at it until it cuts armhair again.
Make sure it cuts armhair EASILY off the 4k. Some people like to move on as soon as it cuts armhair however it cuts it, I like to get it to cut easily.
Move onto the 8k with little pressure, make sure there's enough pressure to keep the razor's spine and edge on the hone and polish it up to a near mirror or mirror finish - whatever the 8k takes it to - and test shave with it.
I know it sounds a pain starting again but, it might save you hours of polishing a damaged bevel.
good luck
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02-01-2012, 08:55 PM #17
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- Dec 2011
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Thanked: 21You are using hollow grind blades, and if you are putting any pressure on the blade on the hone, you are never going to get a good shave. Take your second, guiding hand off the razor, and hone with one hand only, using the "flip" you learned for stropping on the hone.
Next, put aside your 4k stone. Get the 8k out - make a slurry, and gradually dilute it over 50 strokes until its just water. When you're on water, do 30 more strokes. AGAIN, everything on the 8k needs to be one hand only. After that, strop 50 times each side on your leather strop. Tight strop, 1/4 pound of pressure, max.
Give it a shot and see how it goes. Oh, also, you should be doing a combination of circles and x strokes. If you're just sliding the razor back and forth on an 8x3 stone because it fits the whole blade, you'll never get an edge thats sharp the whole way down the blade.
If at any time the spine of your razor lifts off the stone, you just ruined your edge. Start over on the 8k.
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02-01-2012, 09:28 PM #18
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Thanked: 1371I suspect your bevels aren't fully set. Magnification with a monoscopic device can be misleading.
If you want, you can send me one of your blades; I'll take a look at it and send it back with some advice based on what I see.Last edited by HNSB; 02-01-2012 at 09:36 PM.
Strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government.
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02-02-2012, 01:22 AM #19
Bravo HNSB. Kudos for helping.
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02-02-2012, 01:32 AM #20
Seeing as how you just joined today? I have to ask what experience you have shaving with a straight razor? Until you have experience shaving with a "Straight razor" you won't know if the trouble you are having is due to the sharpness or your technique. Thats why it is recommended that you have a honemeister hone it before trying to hone it yourself until you have more time on a straight. comparing it to your DE is just not enough. Trust me, been there done that!!!
Enjoy!
Jeff.