Thread: with regards to lather + a straight shave

does it need to be put on very thick and more wathery. (look canfoam deluxe) or rather more soaplike (so less water) but thinner? I go for version 1 but maybe this is wrong?

Harold,

There are several different ways of using soaps and creams. One is to make a lather in a bowl or mug, which you then apply to your face. The other is to get the tips of your brush soapy and then scrub the brush on your face in circles to build a lather.

I find the mug option to work better. I keep my soap in a small glass container, rub the wet brush on it until the tips are soapy, then whip the lather in a latte mug. In a minute or two I have a thick lather that looks a lot like what you might get out of a can.

Lather making is its own seperate skill, but I find a fluffier lather is usually better than one that's more like soap. This is because the fluffy lather holds more water and holds it longer and thus doesn't dry out as quickly. Right now it takes me 5-10 minutes to complete my first pass, so I don't want my lather drying out in the meantime.

If you're really curious about lather, visit the Badger & Blade forum. You'll learn more than you ever wanted to know about lather.

Good luck,
Josh

Originally Posted by harold

does it need to be put on very thick and more wathery. (look canfoam deluxe) or rather more soaplike (so less water) but thinner? I go for version 1 but maybe this is wrong?

Thicker is better. However if I am using shaving cream rather than shaving soap I will put a dab of the cream on my wet brush and create the lather directly on my face. I prefer this method as it works the lather into the whiskers nicely. Even with soap I get it started in the scuttle but really work the lather up on my face.

I usually make my lather a littler wetter, and don't quite get the meringue or "stiff peaks" in my lather. I find it provides better glide for me without having to use that ever so slight increase in pressure to cut. Of course, I don't make it so wet that it runs down my face either.

I prefer thicker, but have found that building a lather is a lot like honing a razor. The best edge is just shy of being overhoned. The best lather (for me anyway) is just shy of drying out before completing the shave. Too little water and you will never be able to build a lather to start with. Too much water and it will be runny while providing little lubrication. If the lather is too thick (and dry) before you complete your shave the lather will dry out and it will look like its snowing in your bathroom. At the same time, a dried out lather provides less lubrication than water only!

The proper water to cream ratio? It depends on the cream (and your brush). Some require much more than others to build a lather. Just like razor honing, each seems to require a slightly different touch on the hones to create the perfect edge. Moral of the story...practice, practice, practice. When you finds what works for you, stick with it.

Just another data point,
Ed

Keep in mind the purpose of the water to soften the beard and to lubricate. The more water held against the skin, the better the razor glides over the skin decreasing the risk of cuts and improving shaving comfort.

Guys how long is it taking you to shave? I have never had lather dry out on my face. Just curious because a shave takes me about 10-15 minutes for 2 passes with and against.

Rich,

I'm still learning, so I usually have to relather during each pass. It takes me about an hour to shave with my straight, which right now consists of three passes--with, across, and against, plus a few minutes with my DE working on my chin.

To shave with my DE takes me about 20 minutes, but I've only been at that about six weeks or so. I'm finding it's getting a lot quicker as I go along.

Eventually I hope to get my daily shave down to about 15 minutes. I was spending 10 minutes with my Mach 3 and shaving goo, so that would be very reasonable.

So for right now, drying lather is a concern. Eventually I think I'll be fast enough to get through a pass in a couple of minutes, and then it should be fine.

Josh

Originally Posted by RichZ

Guys how long is it taking you to shave? I have never had lather dry out on my face. Just curious because a shave takes me about 10-15 minutes for 2 passes with and against.

Improperly made lather would dry out in 2-3 minutes, I found. "Over-aerated and under-hydrated," I think, as a consequence of using too little water and not working it long enough, so too much water stayed in the bristles of the brush and out of the soap.

while there is no right or wrong way, I soak my brush under the hot water then turn it brush down to get rid of the excess water...I add a pinch of shaving cream and lather up in the palm of my hand...this serves two purposes first lathering in my hand creates a richer lather where a mug seems to create more air bubbles...second I can feel the thickness of the lather which helps me apply the right mixture to my face... being able to repeat the lather mixture time and time again makes for a great shave...finally after applying the lather to my face with brush I let it soak into my beard and pores for several minutes then I wet my fingers and rub the lather into my beard before the first pass...Before a second pass take some lather of the brush with your fingers and rub into beard again...I learned this method of applying lather from master barbers when I spent a lot of time in europe years ago...I mentioned this to lynn when we were together last year
and he was a nonbeliever...when he went to italy to visit the maestro during the summer he got several str8 shaves by the master barbers and guess what tech they used to apply lather ? the method I mentioned above....fingers work better than brushes ...also on additional lathers, the lather does not need to be as thick as the original lather as the face becomes more lubriated...after a pass wipe the lather off on a towel or washcloth...dont just rinse off razor in sink under water...when I asked why the master barber said its important to look at the lather on razor to see what the beard coming off looks like...