Thread: Another Newbie

I started straights because I have sensitive skin and a tough beard. DEs worked ok but the blade flex was a real challenge, so I switched to straights for the heavier and stiffer blades.

Hi Kees,

Thanks for the offer, you are all so helpful. As it should so happen I do already have Chriss Moss's web version on using a straight. I shall have to do a bit of searching and see what members have for sale, although being the novice I am, most of the brands mean nothing to me

John

Hi John,

Another Aussie here in Bris-vegas.

I'm not sure how far down the track you've gone with the straights yet. Personally, I went straight to a Shaver Shop (are they in Adelaide?) and bought their cheapest Dovo with plastic scales, a strop, a brush, and some shaving cream for about $250AUS. There's a woodworking tool maker called Lei-Neilsen, based in SA I believe, from whom I ordered a Norton 4/8k stone ($120AUS incl. postage).

The Dovo is a good razor, even though it was cheap (although $120 is only cheap in a relative sense), regardless of whether you're just starting out or a seasoned pro, IMHO.

Anyway, best of luck.

James.

I think most of us use carbon because it's much more common than stainless. I don't really feel a need for a stainless blade, since I haven't had any issues with rust.

Cooler scale materials do come at a premium, but if you buy a vintage razor you can get a good price on something nice. Or you can get a good blade with cheap scales and have one of the members here make you some really nice custom scales. I have a big Wade & Butcher blade that I restored and had garythepenman make some bloodwood scales for--it's sweet.

A 5/8 roundpoint is the most often recommended razor for a beginner, and I can't argue with that. The 5/8 is small enough that it's not clumsy to use, and it's substantial enough to give you some metal to cut with.

Regardless of what you get, have it honed properly. It's taken me several months to develop my honing skills to the point where I can get a shaving edge consistently.

Good luck,
Josh

Hi Jimbo thanks for saying hello,

Yes I was in the shavershop the other day. They do have the odd Dovos on display, and I did ask if they had access to more, and they said depends on what you want, so from that point of view I will be surprised if they have anything out of the ordinary. I suppose I should be starting with some thing that I can practise honing on though, so we shall see.

In regards to strops etc, I believe I will be buying my lot from one of the experts here. I will have to pay more for it shipping wise, but will get a far superior set up.

Thanks

John

Hi Josh,

Would you notice the difference between say a 5/8 or 6/8 as a beginner? What is the difference between Spanish Point and Spike Point, they both look the same to me.

I gotta confess to liking the more natural types of scales, ebony or buffalo or something. Being an ex chippie by trade I still can't resist those fantastic textures that mother nature provided. Who knows perhaps I could make my own, then it could go with my homemade shave brush which I hope to make sometime real soon, if I can find a supplier for the knots.

Regards

John

John,

I'd say I'm still in the early stages of developing my shaving techique, and I definitely notice a difference between my 6/8 razors and my 5/8s. The 6/8 is clumsier for me around my chin and under my nose--two problem areas for beginners. I find it's hard to get under my lower lip with the bigger blade.

I like the heft of the 6/8 though, and I think I'll become a big blade guy eventually.

I'm not familiar with a Spanish point. I'm pretty sure spike points have a square tip by the blade and a rounded off point on the spine. Square points have both tips squared off. Some spike blades have had the corner blunted near the shaving edge. It's supposed to make them a little safer.

I have several spike razors and have yet to cut or nick myself with one of them. My worst cut came from the tip of my round point 6/8, which I somehow got just into my ear. It bled for about half an hour. So you have to be careful with the point no matter what.

I do tend to like round points better, but spike points are easier for me to use on my upper lip.

Josh

Spanish point is the opposite of a round point where the tip of the blade is concave, not convex.

For the most part razor scales are all made from water resistant materials for longer life. Celluloid has some issues with combustion in the high heat and horn has a tendency to reform its shape over many years if conditions are bad. Bone (and I would assume ivory) has the best properties for this reason and a good hard wood is not far behind. Mother of Pearl is certainly water repellant and beautiful, but fragile. Many other materials have been used like steel and plexi and some have even surmised a stone like jade might be made to work (what ever happened to that? I'd love to see that happen) but in the end it comes down to aesthetic. Get the scales you want either already on the razor you want or as a replacement set on the razor you buy. You'll love yourself for doing so.

I'd say a 5/8 is the standard starter for a reason, but that 6/8 is not that far off. Anything larger or smaller might be a little unweildy for the beginner. Larger, heavier blades are appreciated by most experience straight razor shavers. With time and a little trial and error, you'll find the razors you like best.

Round points are also standard for a reason and it's NOT because they're a lot safer to use. I think they might be a little safer, but they just look a lot less scary and that's encouraging to n00bs. That's just MHO, I could be completely wrong on that. I have always prefered the spike tip for its accuracy, but my 3/8 French Point is a super detail razor.

Carbon steel is also the most popular around here because we like to hone them and they're easier to do that with, but also because stainless steel razors are only about 30-40 years old and there were still lots of carbon razors being made throughout this period. This group likes to play with antiques as well, refurbing and what-not and there are just more toys to play with in the carbon steel range. Lynn upholds that the Maestro's new SS is the best he's ever come across and when you're ready to drop $500 on one you can let us all know what you think.

I can see you're looking at new blades, but there is some discussion around these parts as to the relative quality of these stock line produced steels with regards to the older steel made when people were used to and insistant on the best steel for the job. That said, I will say that the full hollow Thiers Issards I have tried have keened up very nicely and shaved very well. I would still encourage you to get a razor from one of the members here. It will come shave ready which is an important bench mark to experience and you can be certain it's a good bit of steel. You can always get line razors ... well ... down the line.

X

PS On the issue of skin (and you may already know this);
Soap dries your skin out and encourages your skin to produce more oils.
Moisturizing consistently, discourages excess oil production.
I'm cleansing with Spectro Jel these days and it's helping.

Hi XMan,

Many thanks for your comprehensive reply to my questions. Looks like it will be some sort of 5/8 or 6/8 round point, although you have just mentioned a French point?

I kinda like Thiers Issards also and have found a couple that I like one being the Leaf & vine Red Stamina 6/8 or Frameback" Red Stamina 6/8, mind you I still don't know what frame back means. Sorry don't know how to make a link.

I have also looked at a few other razors from members here, but to be honest I get bamboozled with the different brands which all seem to have some sort of different description and I'm not sure if they are good for a newb like me to learn on. But yes ultimately I want to buy from here.

I have not heard of your Spectro Jel that you are cleansing with, I shall have to check it out. I also have a shipment of stuff on the way at the moment which includes a cleanser, so if it works with my oily skin I'll let you know.

Cheers

John

John,

A frameback is an interesting animal. The way I understand it, a frameback is a really thin, flat blade welded or somehow attached to a thicker piece of steel, which forms the razor's spine.

If you've ever seen those one-edged razor blades that have a spine on one edge you'll have an idea what I mean.

The thin blade makes the razor super easy to hone, while the spine adds stiffness and gives the right angle when you lay the razor on the hone. Less metal than a regular hollow-ground probably makes the razors cheaper to manufacture, although I doubt that savings is passed along to the buyer...

Make sense? Someone correct me if I'm off base here.

Josh