Results 11 to 18 of 18
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07-14-2012, 05:37 AM #11
There aren't any save for old folk tales. A rotation is really good for new shavers because you get to discover what you like to shave with regarding type of steel, size and grind. Get yourself a modest rotation, modify it after some time and hone in (heh) on what you prefer.
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07-14-2012, 05:54 AM #12
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- May 2011
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- Mount Torrens, South Australia
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Thanked: 485It's really about enjoying multiple razors.
In regards to the original question of quality, obvious crappy rubbish aside, I think a lot of it is subjective.
I hung around guys who knew what they were on about and bought from them.Stranger, if you passing meet me and desire to speak to me, why should you not speak to me? And why should I not speak to you?
Walt Whitman
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07-17-2012, 09:40 PM #13
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- Jul 2012
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Thanked: 0Thank you all for the input.
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07-17-2012, 10:07 PM #14
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- Dec 2011
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- Lakewood, WA
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Thanked: 56Hey There
I saw this posted and thought "hmm WW3 is about to erupt". Your favorite razor brand is very personal. I know that seems like a daft thing to say to somebody who asked for advice on which to buy ... BUT ... you can try any number before you find your favorite razor. Just check the advice on what NOT to buy and you will be fine, make sure it is shave ready when you get your first so you know what to aim for and you will be fine!
Have fun
Carl.
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The Following User Says Thank You to straightrazorheaven For This Useful Post:
johnnyVll (07-19-2012)
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07-18-2012, 12:40 AM #15
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- Jul 2012
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Thanked: 0Thank you, Carl.
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07-18-2012, 07:31 PM #16
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- Jul 2012
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Thanked: 2I just bought a vintage razor from Introduction to razors
The razors are vintage but new and unused. (made by Ford & Medley) You can specify what scales you want fitted as well and they come honed, stropped and shave ready.
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07-19-2012, 01:41 AM #17
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- May 2012
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- 28
Thanked: 3There are a lot of quality razors out there. Especially in the vintage market. One idea could be to aim for some tried and tested models, which dont cost all that much. Start with 2 or 3 of those and then settle into something you like the feel of.
A few such fairly inexpensive common examples ( certainly not a complete list ) would include ERN crown and sword, Paul Kohl "the fisher" any vintage swedish eg E A Berg. or Heljestrand, any of the G Poulalion French Framebacks, most Sheffields makers between 1850 and 1950. Some Sheffield makers such as J rodgers or Wade and Butcher maybe a little expensive to start with, but there are many many others and if you get one in good condition then it is unlikely you will find a bad Sheffield maker.
Sorry but I dont know American makers so I cant advise on any of those.
Just be aware that , as with most commodities, some makers have great reputations and inflated prices, but that doesnt mean that they are any better than many other , less expensive ones. Dont simply buy the name. After all a pair of £10 market stall denims does the same job as a £400 pair of Gucci's.
Read the WIKI to get an idea of which ones to avoid.
Also a round point might be an easier introduction for you than a severe spanish point etc.
To be honest it is impossible to answer your question properly.
Oi! at least I had a go
PS. I dont know if others agree but a 5/8 roind point seems to be about the best to learn with, and a full hollow is easier to hone/strop than a wedgeLast edited by moop; 07-19-2012 at 01:46 AM. Reason: additional comment
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07-19-2012, 02:37 AM #18
Agreed with moop, but American is something I know of. The Americans produced some fine English and German types in the 1800's, as many immigrants came over, plying their trades. In later instances, Union Cutlery, Geneva/Genco, Case, Cattaraugus, Dixie, Burrell, Kinfolks, Clauss, King, Torrey, Christianson, American Knife, Carl Monkhouse, Aerial Mfg Co, George Korn. Real American Makers. Many more! All quality steel. Can be had at a bargain, it seems!!
Last edited by sharptonn; 07-19-2012 at 02:41 AM.