Thread: Butcherd on the Hone? Butchered on the Strop? Just Butchered?

I have been trying to hone a Wade and Butcher I picked up on Ebay. Whoever had it before me tried to do some strange type of honing and I'm trying to over come that.

I hope I am not fighting a lost cause.

Here are some pics of sides A and B. Maybe you masters can tell me whats up.

I nearly have my double duck to shavable and am working on another W&B, which by the way, seem to have a wedge grind or more straight sides.

I also have a Keystone (anyone ever heard of it?) which I have been working on. So far, only the double duck and the keystone have been any where near smooth shaving sharp.

Probably the grinder or the Dremel sharpening attachment.

quite alot of hone wear on that baby.

in the first 2 pictures you can see how wide the bevel is in the middle of the razor compared to either end...then look at the spine in the middle and that is also shows much more hone wear. i'd say someone use alot of pressure in that area when honing. a wide bevel in and of itself doesn't mean anything bad, but yours shows excessive/uneven pressure in the middle.

maybe you can get it to be a good shaver...but it just may be too much of a lost cause. definite regrinding would be good but that prolly cost you more then you paid for the blade.

bummer-ooo

~J

My first reaction was "WHY BOTHER?" but then I remembered how I liked a challenge. So....

1. Use 1000 grit sandpaper, wet/dry, and lay it over your hone or on some flat surface.

2. Hone with out tape on the spine until you have a bevel on the edge for the full length of the blade. Use about 2 lbs of pressure.

3. Use the X pattern

4. Tape the spine and go to the 4k until it passes the thumbnail test.

5. Start a pyramid at the 15/5 level.

Hope this helps,

Randy,

I also like a challenge. For me, I would do it a bit differently:

1. Get padded envelope
2. Address to Bill Ellis
3. Toss in some money
4. Go stand in line at the post office (okay, that's the challenge this time of year)
5. Wait for return

No, I'm not lazy. I'm like George Bush. I'm edumacated!

RT

I believe that one could be reground, and would have to be, IMO, to be usable again.

As whats his face said in that movie, you have to know your limitations. I don't think its worth the expenditure of time on that baby. Its seen its better days.

On the other hand if you really want to get into restoration thats a real project razor however I think it would take some really advanced ability to get it back to being a good shaver and Joe may very well be right and it may need to be reground.

So the question grasshopper is what are your limitations?

Yeah, this can be done, bu tit's a learning broject. My recommendatiin is consistency. It's going to take a lot of this for this razor.

X

Wow, most of this is really bad news. The two blades I can am slowly working up to shave ready are the kind with the really concave sides with the really thin blades. They are light and, I don't know, sort of scary when I go to shave with them... for some reason I also think of fragility.


This wade and butcher is hefty.... it seems to have substance to it and I like that feel, although I have learned from the other w&B that also has a wedge grind (no concaves to speak of on either side, that for some reason it is intimidating when it comes to shaving.... It seems to drag heavily.

So, how expensive is a regrind? Should I just contact one of the guys here and get a W&B from them?

Or, Should I just save and get a Dovo or one of the other new blades for around $70 on one of the sites frequently mentioned here? I will probably have 2 razors up to full shave capabilities soon. Do I need more?

Kimo,

Do you need more? Probably not. But if you
want more, by all means, get 'em.

I would inquire with one of the guys on the
forum if interested in a heavier bladed razor.


Terry