Thread: Wall Street Journal on Shaving - Wrong on Straights

The article is full of unexplored "expert opinions". But there's an essential fact to remember as you read it:

. . . Men's shaving is a $15 _billion_ per year business.

So everybody has something to sell.

I found the article an interesting view into the cultural (and marketing) mainstream. Quite different from SRP and B&B.

Charles

PS -- I found a Gillette SuperSpeed on my boat! I don't remember when or where I got it. Put a Feather blade into it, and got a fine shave. Gillette probably hates me.<g>

The text of the WSJ article (which I posted a link to):


Updated August 29, 2012, 12:22 a.m. ET

In Search of a Perfect Shave

Can New Products and Techniques Make Shaving Better? Calling Out the Myths

By RAY A. SMITH

It is a rare man who is pleased with his shave, or shaves happily. And whether they learned how to shave from their fathers or a YouTube video, their technique tends to be far from perfect, executives at shaving-products companies and dermatologists say.

Gillette observes about 80 men shaving every weekday morning at its shave-technology center in Reading, England, and has concluded that men's top complaint is "not getting a close enough shave," says Kristina Vanoosthuyze, senior scientist at the Procter & Gamble Co. shaving brand.


The straight razor can be intimidating to any man. WSJ's Kelsey Hubbard spent a morning with expert barber Israel Leon and learned some tips on how men can get the perfect straight razor shave at home and without any fear.

This despite the fact that shaving products, including razors and creams, have gotten increasingly sophisticated to help men get sleeker cheeks and avoid irritants like nicks and razor bumps. Schick's new Hydro 5 Power Select razor, for example, includes a flip-top trimmer the brand says is designed to get at tricky areas such as under the nose and sideburns. Gillette launched a clear shaving gel earlier this year, Fusion ProGlide Clear Shave Gel, so men can "see where to shave and edge accurately," its packaging boasts.


Sales of men's razors and blades world-wide are expected to hit nearly $13 billion this year, up from $12.8 billion in 2011, according to market-research firm Euromonitor International. Consumers are expected to spend $2.77 billion on pre-shave products and about $1.23 billion on after-shave products this year.

Some of the discomfort and frustration from shaving is inherent in the act itself: You are taking a sharp object to your face after all. It is time, a range of experts say, for men to rethink their morning routine. Here, they separate the finer points of shaving from the myths.

More Blades Equal a Better Shave

In general, yes, say shaving experts. Five blades is the current gold standard among razor makers, engaged in a blade arms race.


Bic
Blade design: Bic's Hybrid 4 has flexible blades designed to adjust to the contours of the skin.

But blade design may be as important as blade count. Bic's Hybrid 4 razor has four blades which are "flexible," and designed to reduce nicks and tugging. "You think of a car, each wheel can absorb the shock of a bump in the road independent of every wheel," says Ed Dougherty, category president of global stationery and shaver for BIC Group. The design is intended to reduce nicks and tugging, he says. Gillette's battery-operated Fusion ProGlide five-blade razor features thinner, finer blades the brand says glide through hair with less tug and pull, plus a micro comb that guides stubble to the blades and a trimming blade with anti-clogging rinse slots.

The battery-powered Hydro 5 Power Select razor from Schick, which is owned by Energizer Holdings Inc., features variable speed vibrations and five blades that have "skin guards" over each blade. "The skin guards prevent skin from getting jammed in between those blades," says Patrick Kane, senior brand manager of Schick Hydro.

Water Temperature Matters

It does. splash hot water over the face or, if there is time, wrap a towel soaked with hot water around the face. Hot water softens the keratin, a protein, within the hair shaft "so your razor will cut the hair more effortlessly," says Christopher Harmon, a dermatologist in Birmingham, Ala.



Shave in the Shower

Yes. The hot water and the steam help soften the beard. For men who like to shave in the shower, Nivea For Men has a series of 3-in-1 products which contain a shower gel, moisturizing shampoo and a foaming shaving gel. Introduced this year, its Relax product contains more moisturizing ingredients than earlier versions. "Get more done in the shower," a tagline for Nivea's 3-in-1 series says.

A Pre-Shave Routine Is a Waste

An elaborate pre-shave routine may not be necessary for every skin type. But dermatologists say a surprising number of men don't even wash their face, which removes dirt and oil and results in a better shave, before putting on shaving cream. Kiehl's, an upscale cosmetics brand, launched a combination shave gel and face cleanser this summer called Facial Fuel Sky Flyin' Foaming Multi-Gel after hearing from men who didn't want to do multiple steps, says Kiehl's president, Chris Salgardo. The gel also contains a form of ginseng, to minimize redness and irritation after shaving, he says.


It's Worth Reading the Label

Yes. Creams and gels with aloe may be effective at soothing sensitive skin if they contain enough of it, says Susan Taylor, a Philadelphia-based dermatologist. Edge's Sensitive Skin with aloe is its top-selling shave gel. Men should avoid shaving creams with alcohol, which can dry skin. And, "there is no evidence that topical vitamins are effective, except perhaps some forms of vitamin A," Dr. Taylor says.

A Brush Is Best

It depends upon whom you ask. Israel Leon, a master barber with Gillette's Art of Shaving, which operates salons and has a line of products, recommends applying shave cream with a lather brush, as the brush's bristles can coax out the facial hairs more effectively than hands, leading to a closer shave.


Moisturize Before Shaving

Some dermatologists and barbers recommend moisturizing the face before shaving, to soften hair and avoid irritating the skin. Most men "don't take time to prepare their skin," says Karen Grant, global industry analyst for beauty at market researcher NPD Group. "They're not aware they're causing irritation." Only 25% of 8,794 men NPD Group surveyed last year used skin-care products.

Toss Blades Every Week

Most shaving experts say to rely on how the blade feels rather than the calendar. If a razor seems to be tugging at hairs, swap out the blade.

Go With the Grain

Yes, but then go against the grain for a closer shave, say many shaving experts. John E. Wolf Jr., chairman of the department of dermatology at Baylor College of Medicine in Houston, says while a man may get a closer shave shaving against the grain, the trade-off is "you're more likely to get ingrown hairs or irritation," since this is more likely to tug at the skin, leading to ingrown hairs. Many men have the best luck shaving with the grain for some areas of the face, and against it for others.

There's a Cure for Nicks

There isn't, unfortunately. Affixing a small wad of tissue, as many men have discovered, isn't much help. And it looks silly. Instead, apply pressure to the nick with a finger for three to five minutes. If it won't stop bleeding, try an ice cube. Clinique's Post-Shave Healer for men is intended to soothe the skin as well as any nicks. Some men use products called alum blocks or styptic pencils, which contain aluminum sulfates, natural astringents that help stop bleeding from small cuts.


Ingrown Hairs Are Inevitable

Not so. New products and strategies can help avoid and treat these inflamed areas, usually more of a problem for men of color and men with curly facial hair.

To prevent them, shave with the grain, use a face cleanser and shaving gels that contain moisturizer and don't pull the skin taut while shaving, says Andrew Alexis, director of the Skin of Color Center at St. Luke's-Roosevelt Hospital in New York. He recommends a topical vitamin A cream (a retinoid) at night to exfoliate, making it less likely hairs will get embedded in the skin.

Rather than tweezing ingrown hairs, Dr. Alexis recommends using a wash cloth before shaving in "a circular motion to gently dislodge the superficially embedded hairs."



The Razors' Edges

Different types of razors can give a different quality of shave. It mostly comes down to personal preference, say dermatologists.

•Straight Razors
Often used in barbershops or male grooming salons, these razors are generally considered the sharpest. While they tend to offer a superior shave, they also demand more time and money.

•Double-Edge Safety Razors
This style has a metal handle and permanent head that holds double-edge razor blades, meaning both edges of the blade are sharp. Close shaving can generally be achieved with fewer strokes.

•Multi-blade Cartridge Razors
These are among the most popular of razors, with a replaceable plastic cartridge usually holding three to five blades. The shave generally won't be as close as with a double-edge safety razor but better than one with a disposable razor.

•Disposable Razors
Made of plastic with non-removable razor blades that tend to dull fast, these are designed for convenience. The blades tend to not be as sharp as non-disposables, so the shave may not be as close.

Source: WSJ reporting

Write to Ray A. Smith at [email protected]

I finally got to read this in my print version, and save it in my on-line version.

They do have a youtube of a Straight Razor Shave (With what looks like a Dovo Shavette with a red insert from what I could see)
Showing prep, machine made Lather (reminded me of the machine in my Grandfathers Shop, the filling of which was one of my chores) using a brush etc.

In Search of a Perfect Shave - WSJ.com

(The youtube on shaving with a straight is imbedded)

And a positive explanation of the values of Straight Razor Shaving, mentioning the exfoliation (why you feel younger...) etc.

Funny point of the graphic of complaints about shaving;
Not close enough - 24%
Ingrown hairs - 22%
Skin Irritation - 19%
Razor Bumps - 13%
Razor Burn - 8%

All of the above we can fix with a good edge and a couple of months of practice...

Nick/Cuts 13%

We know how to nick, cut, weeper, gash, flense etc.....They don't no nuthin' about no stinkin' cuts....