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09-19-2012, 05:55 AM #1
Thick, Wiry Beard = Bigger, Heavier Blade?
I apologize in advance for the slightly wordy post.
I've just begun using straights - have about 20 - 25 shaves under my belt (still using DEs mostly during the week as it is much quicker for me). I have seen steady improvement in my ability to move the blade down, across and even against the grain. I do have some trouble spots where I can't seem to get the angle correct (curve of chin) and the right side of my face is still getting a slightly better shave than the left .
I have been using 4 different 5/8 hollow ground razors. I purchased a Dovo new from SRD and found 3 other shave readys through this forum and other shave forums. I believe that I have my stropping to the point where I am at least cleaning up and prepping the edge as opposed to doing any harm - so far only nicked my strop the first couple of times I used it. All 4 razors seem to be sharp - or at least they all feel roughly the same on my face and to my thumbpad.
My issue is that no matter how much I play with the angle, change up the lather (making it with more water), etc all 4 razors seem to drag and catch through my beard. This happens mostly going XTG and ATG so I understand there could be issues with my technique. However even when going with the grain, all 4 razors seem to drag a bit and they don't really do a whole lot to my beard. They do remove some growth but it is not exactly smooth no matter what angle I try to use. I'm not cutting myself up either so I think I'm on the right track as far as the angle is concerned. I feel that I've hit my first roadblock in shaving with straights.
I believe I read somewhere that a bigger, heavier blade is better for thick/wiry/strong beards. Is this true?
In addition to continue working on my shave and strop technique, should I try a bigger and heftier blade? Perhaps a 6/8 half hollow? It seems to make sense that the additional weight would help cut through the beard easier. But I'm turning to the experts for confirmation.
For what it's worth, I have to use DEs on the aggressive side like the R41, Fatip, slants to get a good shave. The popular 34C, DE89, etc simply don't work with my beard.
Any and all input/advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks SRP!
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09-19-2012, 06:19 AM #2
Thick, Wiry Beard = Bigger, Heavier Blade?
My ideas on this issue differs from most here. My answer would be Sharper Not Bigger. Those who say bigger will tell you that Pressure is the Issue. With Bigger you have Weight and like a guillotine the beard will cut itself as it falls. Sorry I don't think so.
Bigger, I believe, was just a Function of holding more lather. You have to remember the time when they were used... No running water, ability to hold lather was an issue.
Check their sharpness.
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PFunkDaddy (09-19-2012)
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09-19-2012, 06:20 AM #3
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Thanked: 13247If you read the older publications from the Olden Age of Straight Razors it does actually say that the heavier grinds are for Heavier beards, -BUT- if you jump forward to the Golden Age of Straight Razors 1930+ when Hollow grinding became common you don't see that so much..
The heavier grinds (1/2 hollow and lower) do tend to make things a bit easier to start with for beginners because they need less finesse, but I would hold short of saying they are actually better ..
Try one and see how it works out for you that is the best way to tell...
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PFunkDaddy (09-19-2012)
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09-19-2012, 08:18 AM #4
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Thanked: 38I Fully agree!
IF your beard is the issue, try working the lather longer:
Get as usual lather on your face, do something else in the meantime and keep the lather on your face. Every 2 minutes add a little water to the brush and work again the lather on your face, try to keep the lather thick and wet, repeat 2-4 times.
That way you keep the wet lather on your face for 10 minutes or more and allow the water enter the hair and soften it.
Then shave, if it doesn't work the issue is not (not only) your beard.
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PFunkDaddy (09-19-2012)
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09-19-2012, 10:03 AM #5
Sharper, not bigger is definitely great advice. I don't think the beard will cut itself, but certainly the weight of the bigger blades requires less downward pressure, when moving down. Moving up, well, now you have to lift the heavy blade. Make no mistake, they are significantly heavier. I have several 8/8,9/8 and 10/8 W&B razors are there is a significant weight difference when compared to a 5/8.
Here is a quick photo of the difference in size, one is 9/8 the other 5/8. There is a significant weight difference. Which is better?.....depends on what you like.
“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.”
Albert Einstein
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PFunkDaddy (09-19-2012)
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09-19-2012, 01:26 PM #6
For me, the weight of the razor does not make as much difference in my shaving as the grind of the razor. I don't know why.
I prefer the feel of a small quarter hollow razor (or heavier grind) to a full hollow of any size. Again I don't know why - like Glen said and maybe others (sorry I don't have time to read everyone's posts, so I try to hit the ones I think will be most entertaining - or have the most punctuation, hehehe) try different kinds of well-honed razors if you get the opportunity, and try to make an honest comparison for yourself to find what you really prefer.
And you are likely to find your preferences changing a little or a lot as your shaving/stropping/honing techniques improve
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PFunkDaddy (09-19-2012)
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09-19-2012, 01:52 PM #7
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09-19-2012, 04:04 PM #8
In the old days barbers had a few razors and they were pretty much 5/8s and 6/8s hollow ground and they used them to shave everyone who came into the shop no matter the type of beard they had and they all got great comfortable shaves. So that fact should put the "suit the razor to the beard" myth to bed. Of course it doesn't but it just shows you don't need to specialize to get a great shave.
No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero
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09-19-2012, 04:12 PM #9
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09-19-2012, 05:37 PM #10
Yeah, I usually have a shower before hand or at least use a hot towel. I also use both pre-shave oil and Proraso before each pass - works like a champ when I'm using my DEs.
I haven't tried what Sterm suggested which is to let the later soak in for several minutes - I'm going to give that a shot as well.