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Thread: Matt's shave journel

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    Default Matt's shave journel

    Well, one shave down!
    Here are the details:

    Equipment:
    W.H. Morley & Son's Clover razor (shave ready, thanks again Wid)
    Omega Boar Brush
    Unknown Etsy brand soap my wife bought me
    Ruprazor Filly Strop
    Old unknown strop (leather and linen)

    Pre-shave:
    +/- 40 laps on the Ruprazor strop
    I was more concerned with technique and no cutting of the strop then counting the strokes
    Hot water saturation of my face
    Face Lathered with the brush and soap

    Shave:
    I couldn't get a good angle in the mirror or feel comfortable trying to start at my side burn. So I started just inside of my sideburn on the cheek. With the cheek shaved I kept the same angle and moved to the side burn. When I attempted to start on my left side, with my non-dominate hand, I felt like a new born giraffe. But I managed to get through both the cheek and sideburn area. At this point I'm giddy as a school girl so I move on to my neck. Right side no problems, Left side a little awkward but no problem. Middle of the neck/throat no problems. So with no cuts, no pain, no nicks, no burn I decided to tackle my upper lip, and chin area. At this point my lather was drying out a little so I reapplied. I found that trying to use the mirror and shave my upper lip was awkward again but I managed my way through. The chin area took a bit of time but again I got through.

    So one pass with the grain for the most part I didn't end up with any burn, nicks, or cuts. It went better then any shave I've ever had with a DE as far as damage to my face. I noticed one patch that I missed on the left side of my face under the jaw, above the throat if that makes sense. I re-lathered and finished up with my DE, getting a small nick near my adams apple go figure.

    Post Shave:
    Hot water rinse
    CVS which hazel
    Approximately 10 to 15 strokes on the linen of the old strop and then probably 20 on the leather part.
    Ice/cold water rinse
    Nivea Balm

    It's really funny that a few short months ago I really hated shaving. Standing in line to pay an un-Godly amount for replacement Mach3 heads I decided to break out the old Gillette Tech again. I kinda found the "zen" so to speak in shaving, and now look forward to having a little me time. That transitioned to catching the straight razor bug, and finally enjoying the heck out of my first attempt with a straight razor. There is much to learn but I'm enjoying it.

    Now for my one real question at this point:
    On the right side of my neck and throat the hair grows chin --> ear. Should I be pursuing shaving WTG that way or just North to South for the time being? Or is there even really a way to shave chin --> ear WTG and ear-->chin with a straight razor? I haven't seen any one going those directions in all the youtube videos when shaving the neck.

    Matt

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    Member Bluerain's Avatar
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    man I hope my first shave goes that smoothly and i find with a de razor going diagonal xtg straight up then down works pretty well then i go atg at a steep angle both ways also so not directly atg but close to it good luck

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    I ment to add to the above that I plan on trying my best to keep this thread as a journal for a good while while I try to get my technique lined out and such. I usually shave about 4 to 5 days a week for work so the post will be spread out a little bit.

    Bluerain I appreciate the reply. With my DE I can go WTG, XTG ear to chin, and then ATG and get a DFS if not BBS shave. I usually have a little burn, and a small nick or 2 on my throat.

    Matt

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    Alright Shave 2

    Same equipment as above, but used VDH soap from Walmart.

    Pre-shave:
    Prior to my shower I was working on my stropping, and placed several nicks in my Filly strop as seems to be custom for new guys. They've been cleaned up with a pumice stone.
    Nice hot shower to soften the beard.

    The Shave:
    Managed 2 WTG(N->S) passes. Not a DFS or BBS but no nicks, no cuts, and no discomfort. I have a little redness at the base of my neck but that may be left over from my DE from yesterday.
    Overall enjoyable and lots to learn.

    Post shave:
    Hot water rinse
    Which Hazel
    Cold water rinse
    Nivea Balm

    Had a new hand made/custom brush arrive today as well as 2 other razors. I'm going to try to stick with using just the Clover razor for the time being to keep as many variables out of it as I can.

    Matt

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    Plausibly implausible carlmaloschneider's Avatar
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    [QUOTE]...Now for my one real question at this point:
    On the right side of my neck and throat the hair grows chin --> ear. Should I be pursuing shaving WTG that way or just North to South for the time being? Or is there even really a way to shave chin --> ear WTG and ear-->chin with a straight razor? I haven't seen any one going those directions in all the youtube videos when shaving the neck.[QUOTE]

    Can I say that's like the Hold Grail question of straight razor shaving? Seriously. When you have technique, prep, honing etc pegged, what's left is your question. In my opinion, given a good edge, good prep, good technique, getting up at each hair exactly ATG is the key. Given the posts I've read, irregular hair growth is a real factor. A straight is a long edge, in my opinion, unless you're a trumpet player or a gridiron play with a neck wider than your jaw, if your hair grows perpendicular to your jawline, you just can't fit the length of a straight in there comfortably to get those hairs ATG. I guess you could use the toe, but that's fraught with danger. I think that's why some guys use a DE as a touch up. Makes sense. I think you can get pretty good at getting those E to W and W to E hairs on the neck and corner of the jawline, but I think it's very much related to the ultimate shave to get them ALL.

    PS are you posting in the SOTD thread? You should post in the SOTD thread; it's a little quiet at the moment...
    Last edited by carlmaloschneider; 08-18-2012 at 07:48 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider View Post
    Can I say that's like the Hold Grail question of straight razor shaving? Seriously.

    PS are you posting in the SOTD thread? You should post in the SOTD thread; it's a little quiet at the moment...
    Why beat around the bush, me I go straight for the holy grail. I do appreciate you answering the question though, your explanation makes a lot of sense. Of course at this point I'm lucky to get a WTG pass accomplished and look half presentable afterwards.

    I'll make an effort to get into the SOTD thread today or tomorrow. I usually shave when I get off of work(graveyards) so I have plenty of time but today I'm fairly beat down so shaving will have to wait until I wake up.

    For my next question: How good of a shave can one expect to get going just WTG in one or two passes? Once I got accustomed to my DE I would do a 3 pass WTG XTG and ATG and end up with a good shave but probably never achieved BBS. And sometimes when I pushed out to my 3rd, ATG, pass I'd butcher my lower neck. At my current skill level with a straight I don't expect greatness but would like to know when I hit the point where WTG is about as good as it'll get.

    Matt

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    Senior Member IamSt8ght's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Now for my one real question at this point:
    On the right side of my neck and throat the hair grows chin --> ear. Should I be pursuing shaving WTG that way or just North to South for the time being? Or is there even really a way to shave chin --> ear WTG and ear-->chin with a straight razor? I haven't seen any one going those directions in all the youtube videos when shaving the neck.

    Matt[/QUOTE]

    My beard grows the same way under my chin, and it took a few months to figure out how to get it BBS in that area. I watched a youtube video from Razorup's channel, by chance, and someone (may be his son???) went ATG with a straight in that area and under his chin. I tried it, and now that move is part of my daily shave, and I get BBS under my chin. I first shave north to south on my chin and under my chin with my right hand, then I shave against the grain under my chin, right to left, using my left hand, with my head tilted as far back as I can tilt. It's a blind move because you're looking at the ceiling. It may take some practice, but it works. Good luck.

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    -- There is no try, only do. Morty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mdixon2124 View Post
    Now for my one real question at this point:
    On the right side of my neck and throat the hair grows chin --> ear. Should I be pursuing shaving WTG that way or just North to South for the time being? Or is there even really a way to shave chin --> ear WTG and ear-->chin with a straight razor?
    Hi Matt,
    You've gotten some great advice so far. As your skills and confidence improve, your right brain will lead your hands into the correct stroke, blade angle and skin stretch for challenging areas like your neck. Don't rush it and it will come to you in an "AHA!" moment.

    On that part of my neck my beard growth is exactly like yours. Here is what works for me:

    1st pass: I do a diagonal pass that is somewhere between a WTG and an XTG pass. Razor in my right hand, edge down, toe pointed toward, but somewhat below, my right earlobe, I work my way across my neck from below my chin to below my ear using short guillotine strokes that move in a heel-to-toe direction that is illustrated here, with NO pressure at all. NOTE: I need to go from below my chin to below my ear several times, overlapping, to complete the first pass.

    2nd pass: Nearly identical to my 1st pass, but I hold the razor in my right hand edge UP, toe pointed as above, I work my way from below my ear to below my chin using short guillotine strokes that move in a TOE-TO-HEEL direction this time. Again, NO pressure and I need to repeat a few times (overlapping) to complete the pass.

    3rd pass: I do a good ATG here. I have fun with this pass because my hand gets in the way to the point I can't see the edge of my razor contacting my skin. I solved that problem by closing my eyes (-_-) and going by feel alone. I hold my razor in my right hand, using Grip 1. illustrated here. The tail of my razor is up, the toe pointed toward the base of my neck between my clavicle and trapezius muscle. That gives me a pretty decent ATG pass. I use short guillotine strokes with a toe-to-heel direction, working my way from below my ear to below my chin. Again, as above, I do several narrow overlapping passes with NO pressure to complete the ATG on this part of my face.

    Please do not assume that I'm instructing you to copy my technique. I had the exact same problem with my neck when I started out that you have. As my confidence and skills developed, my right brain led my hands to the strokes I describe above. This is what works for me, for my beard, and for my skin. With time and practice, your right brain will provide you with a solution that works for your beard and your skin. I am just demonstrating that that is what will happen.

    And don't forget to stretch your skin!
    Namaste,
    Morty -_-
    Last edited by Morty; 08-25-2012 at 02:56 PM. Reason: Clarified my example.

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    Shave 8:

    I gave the Morley razor 30/70 again just to see if I had a bad day or it was really giving me some tug and pull. I had about a day and a half growth. On the first N-->S pass there was some tug and pull. On the second pass it was provided a smooth glide. Every once in a while I'd stop on both passes and check the lather built up on the razor. Every time, evenly throughout the blade, the lather was full of whiskers. So I turn to the pro's here. Should I give it 5 to 10 laps on the pasted ruprazor strop, send it to be honed, keep using it and don't let my beard grow more then a day? I just don't know if it's dulled a bit after 7 shaves or what the deal is. Couple that with me still learning to strop, and shave I could very well be the problem.

    As far as the shave it went well. I missed a spot on my neck but things seem to be improving each time. And again no nicks, cuts, or burn so that's always a plus.

    Matt

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    Plausibly implausible carlmaloschneider's Avatar
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    Hi Matt,
    You're going to get a lot of opinions, and that statement is even more astonishing when you realise you;re going to get three different opinions from one person!!

    Giving it a few laps on the pasted strop would not be a bad idea; though I've never used a pasted strop.

    Sending it to be honed would not be a bad idea, though I've never sent a razor to be honed

    Many people would say I'm wrong, but I'd buy a Norton 4/8 and a Shapton 16k and learn to use them.

    The easier option is sending it out, the second easiest is using your pasted strop and the hardest is honing. But one day, if we want to be REAL men, we learn to hone :-)

    Oh, BTW, I think one should expect just a small amount of tugging sometimes, not every shave is perfect...
    Stranger, if you passing meet me and desire to speak to me, why should you not speak to me? And why should I not speak to you?
    Walt Whitman

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