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Thread: Try this on your leather
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12-21-2006, 07:22 PM #1
Scott, where is all this old barber knowledge stored so I can get a read of it ?
PuFF
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12-21-2006, 07:29 PM #2
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Thanked: 369I have a couple of old barber school text books:
Standard Textbook of Barbering, 1950
The Barbers Manual by A.B. Moler
and some barber shop collectables books such as:
Barbershop History and Antiques by Christian R. Jones
These have all been great sources of information.
The barber manuals / texts are long out of print, but can be found, sometimes online. I think Mr. Jones book is still in print.
Scott
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12-21-2006, 07:31 PM #3
A great resource for used books is ABEBooks.com. I write Gregg shorthand, and I've found tons of good resources on that site.
Josh
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12-21-2006, 08:02 PM #4
Might be a bad move after all this time to start reading how it's supposed to be done
Ignorance is bliss
PuFF
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12-21-2006, 09:10 PM #5
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Thanked: 369
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12-31-2006, 12:42 PM #6
. . . and we have one in the help files, The 1961 Textbook for barbers.
Scott, I've tried this method and had no luck at all. I get no draw whatsoever. The only variable I can find is I don't have Williams soap. I've tried creams and I've tried Classicshaving soap.
Any thoughts?
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12-31-2006, 04:55 PM #7
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Thanked: 79Alan, I don't know if it means anything for sure, but from what I gather classic soaps are glycerin soaps, and most creams have a bit much in there as well..I've had success with Williams myself awhile back when something similar was suggested to treat the nap on the Illinois 827 (along with a pumice stone rub and lots of attention with a glass bottle)
I think perhaps Tabac, or some other triple milled non meltable soap would work also, like Colgate or even some hard bath soaps like Ivory. The others have so much glycerin it might be self defeating. Just a thought, though it's not something I know for sure.
John P.