first go

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Originally Posted by kwlfca

Checked out "the filly" and I'll order one next week! thanks for the tip on a good strop. The one I have coming is cheap because I've been told that a first strop can be ruined

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A strop can be damaged anytime you loose focus on the task at hand or try to go faster than your muscle memory can handle. Start out slow & stay focused...you will catch on rather quickly. I did my worse "nick" to a strop after I had been shaving a couple of years, I wasn't focusing on the task at hand for that slight moment. It more than likely will happen some time or another, but it's not the end of the world.

As mentioned above, cheap & in-expensive are two different things. The Filly is a affordable good strop. The strops at SRD are good ones & the leather is replaceable, it's one of them that I did my bad nick on. It was still useable to get me by, but I replaced the leather as soon as I could. I still have my first good strop, a Filly, that I ended up glueing to a thin piece of oak with a handle on it. Its my pasted/sprayed strop.

I ordered a cheap one off of ebay purely to learn technique on, knowing that for under $3 it would be crap, but again it was just to learn on and knowing that I also have to get one that will actually do the job. I've been on the fence as to where to order a decent inexpensive strop from. Having no frame of reference for what's what, I rely on you guys to point me in the right direction for that. It's good to finally make a decision on the filly without worrying on if it's decent or not.

I have been wondering how a strop could even be nicked, considering the edge follows the spine, but I guess that makes sense that it can happen from just not paying attention. I tend to be quite anal and careful when doing things so perhaps that's why I couldn't think of how it could be nicked. I guess the tip/toe of the blade would be the part that would do it.

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Originally Posted by kwlfca

I have been wondering how a strop could even be nicked, considering the edge follows the spine, but I guess that makes sense that it can happen from just not paying attention. I tend to be quite anal and careful when doing things so perhaps that's why I couldn't think of how it could be nicked. I guess the tip/toe of the blade would be the part that would do it.

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With a smaller width strop like a filly, you can't strop the whole blade without doing a x stroke. I would either use a x stroke or just do one up and back stroke on one half of the blade, then do the other half. If you drag a tip wrong on a strop you can scratch one. If you don't do the "flip" after you have completely stopped all movement, you can nick a strop. If you loose focus, you can start the opposite stroke before you flip. At first it probably won't happen as you will be quite focused. Then, your confidence will grow and all of a sudden "poop" happens. Some have never damaged a strop, but I can't include myself in that category. Once your confidence has grown is typically where most oop's happen...

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Originally Posted by shooter74743

With a smaller width strop like a filly, you can't strop the whole blade without doing a x stroke. I would either use a x stroke or just do one up and back stroke on one half of the blade, then do the other half. If you drag a tip wrong on a strop you can scratch one. If you don't do the "flip" after you have completely stopped all movement, you can nick a strop. If you loose focus, you can start the opposite stroke before you flip. At first it probably won't happen as you will be quite focused. Then, your confidence will grow and all of a sudden "poop" happens. Some have never damaged a strop, but I can't include myself in that category. Once your confidence has grown is typically where most oop's happen...

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I read that it's better to get a 2" (as opposed to the 3") to get yourself used to the x stroke, that way once I eventually learn to hone, I'll already be familiar with the x stroke. True?

I don't think so with the 2". I spoke to Lynn for an hour before I bought my first SR. A 3" is easier to learn on and have less of a chance of cutting it. Although....I beat mine up a few times. I read if you cut it, contact cement works well. If you nick it... A pumice stone or sand paper works well. I used a pumice stone and sand paper. Another tip to break the strop in is to rub it with the palm of your hand until your hand is hot...then rub the other hand. It broke mine in with out any other products. Good luck! Have a good time! :beer1:

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Originally Posted by kwlfca

I read that it's better to get a 2" (as opposed to the 3") to get yourself used to the x stroke, that way once I eventually learn to hone, I'll already be familiar with the x stroke. True?

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That's just one of those opinion things...IMO:rofl2:

You can do a x stroke on a 2 or 3" strop just like you can do just straight strokes. Key is just ensuring the entire edge is getting a good stropping. YOu can get there by x's, straights, or a combination of both...just which ever you learn that you like the best. Yes, smiling blades do work a little better on x's. Try them both as there is no rule here as long as you arrive with a well stropped edge.

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Originally Posted by shooter74743

That's just one of those opinion things...IMO:rofl2:

You can do a x stroke on a 2 or 3" strop just like you can do just straight strokes. Key is just ensuring the entire edge is getting a good stropping. YOu can get there by x's, straights, or a combination of both...just which ever you learn that you like the best. Yes, smiling blades do work a little better on x's. Try them both as there is no rule here as long as you arrive with a well stropped edge.

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I sent you a PM, check your inbox good sir!

Stupid me, I should've mentioned to direct you to whipped dog.com for cheap strops that are quality leather..I'm sorry my friend.. There is a learning curve with a strop also I was never able to get the whole hanging strop thing perfect I nicked the hell out of mine.. So I bought a modular strop with interchangeable leather..what a difference.. If u have a problem with the hanging strop u can lay it flat on a surface and strop that way also feel free to pm me anytime..

Here's a link to Tandy Leather, Not sure if they're in Ontario or not, but this just gives you an idea of what's out there. Tandy Leather Factory - Natural Cowhide Leather Strips X-Long (66")

I used the belt leather to make paddles. It comes 3"w x 50"L so you could easily make a strop by punching, and using some cowhide rope, or even a bootlace. Places like Tandy, have huge scrap bins. You'd be surprised what you can find, and 9x out of 10, they'll give it to you. This has been my experience.

Also, A 3/8 razor would be a little difficult to learn on. Like Shooter said, rolling the edge for one, and keeping a proper angle on your face. I just honed one up for a new guy here in Jacksonville, and he's having trouble with it, same as you. It was most definitely shave ready when it left my house, I did a full shave. Try and find a 5/8 or 6/8 to learn on if you can, I think that may help somewhat....

Good luck....

So far, I've been using the 3/8" to do from the side burn line down the the jaw bone. I'll do this for both sides of my face and the shave with my mach3. Today, I went back and used the 3/8" to touch up right under the jaw bone on my ride side (I can NEVER get that spot with a multiblade disposable without risking an accidental slide/slice purely because of the angles) and I was able to get it pretty close! If only I can get the rest of my face that smooth with the straight lol
Practice makes perfect!