Thread: Re honing

I'd say that's a good idea this first time - a pro honer will have good tools and will be able to get the edge shaving nicely. As an added bonus you'll have something to aim for.

I'd suggest that while you are waiting for it to be done you research sharpness tests (thumb pad *not* thumb nail, hanging hair, arm hair wafting, ...) and when you get it back assess it to see what you need to look for when you do your own. Of course, shaving is the final word so don't forget to do that with it too!

Good luck.

James.

1 question though. Would putting pressure on the blade speed things up, or would that ruin the new edge I'm creating?[/QUOTE]
I can only speak for myself but I have found that pressure results in deep scratches that take a long time to polish out. I've found that going to a courser stone with very light pressure has given me better results. I've set many bevels on a 325 on some eBay specials. Then 600,1200 dmt Norton 4/8 naniwa 12 . It seems to me that the amount of scratches left on the bevel determine shave smoothness for me anyway. To the more experienced honers(I've only honed about 70 blades ) what's your take on the scratches?

Yes, scratches are the reason for an increasing grit progression, in much the same way restoring uses a sandpaper progression.

The basic idea that has developed over time here (and perhaps other places as well) is that you are pretty much there, or thereabouts, in terms of sharpness (two sides of the bevel meeting at a point) after the 1K stone or similar. You may gain marginal sharpness after than, but the main purpose of subsequent, higher grit, stones is to progressively reduce the scratch pattern left by the previous stone. The increase in grit should be such that each successive stone doesn't take forever to remove the previous stone's scratch pattern.

This is the reason why we are so adamant about setting or establishing the bevel - it is where "sharp" comes from. "Smooth" comes after. You may be able to get away with "sharp but not smooth", but you'll never get away with "smooth but not sharp".

James.

Good idea to get it honed by someone who knows how at this stage. I must say, it's probably really clear that you initially honed it without watching any videos on honing at all and probably without reading about honing; would that be right?

I know it's a bit late now, but just in case any other newbies are reading this, of course you'll do what you'll do, but we would HIGHLY recommend watching the huge number of honing videos, checking out the articles in the library, and hanging out in the honing section before possibly destroying your new razors! :-)

Youre on the right track now! Good choice in sending it off. The Norton is an excellent stone and the only stone you will ever really need. You will probably get hooked and add more to play around with though. It would also be a good idea to get a second razor for your honing practice. Once your razor comes back from being pro honed you wont need to hone it again for months if you treat it right.

What kind of razor is it? How was it shaving BEFORE you tried honing it? This might give a clue what to expect from your blade.

When you did the magic marker test, did you look with a loupe or other magnifier? There could just be a small area that you arent reaching at the very edge. That would be hard to see with the naked eye.

If you need me to hone your razor I'll happily take a look at it for you. I ask nothing in return. Just PM me.

Michael