Thread: Marks on my Dovo Solingen

If anyone knows their chemistry they might chime in with just how acidic some fatty acids (oils) are or can get when oxidised.

FWIW --

I've had good luck with a penetrating oil called "Corrosion Block". I think it's available in the US and Canada, not sure about the UK.

WD-40 will probably be OK. "Baby oil" or "mineral oil" from the pharmacy ("chemist", to you) is well-proven and cheap.

All of those are "mineral" oils (from petroleum), not plant-based oils. They'll stay oily for a _long_ time.

Neil Miller's oiling instructions are (as expected) the word of God.

. Charles

I could not find Ballistol or any other mineral oil anywhere in Oxford, but I found some Camellia oil. If it was good enough for the japanese to oil their katanas, it should be good enough for my straight razor? Any opinions ? It is thin and doesn't polymerise and is not a health hazard.

Are people saying that I might be able to use say Johnson's Baby Oil?

Originally Posted by onimaru55

If anyone knows their chemistry they might chime in with just how acidic some fatty acids (oils) are or can get when oxidised.

Oxidisation makes the oils better at donating positive hydrogen atoms. The definition of an acid is a substance that donates or releases positive hydrogen atoms, H+, into its surroundings. How good the substance is at this depends on how oxidised they are, but in essence oxygen molecules on carbon chains are very good at stealing an electron from a neighbouring hydrogen and kicking it out of the molecule.

What I can't answer is how the carbon chains would oxidise when hanging around on a straight razor. If we are talking specifically fatty acids, they are already acidic and happily will donate H+s to their surroundings.

I don't know if the above is very clear at all, but that is my understanding. It is odd but chemists tend often anthropomorphise atoms and molecules...

Camelia oil is fine. Ballistol can be bought in the UK via Amazon.

Katana have the added advantage that they are stored in a scabbard but yes Camelia is fine for razors . Just not long term storage without refreshing it.

The plan is to shave regularly, so it shouldn't be left for more than a few days at a time at the most.

I have received the Autosol polish I ordered. Could anyone give me any tips on polishing? How much force to use? Can I expect the spots to disappear entirely or will I be able to see remnants of them on the blade? I am aware that I will dull the edge as I do it, but I think it is more important to get rid of the rust asap.

If you support the edge & body well you can rub it in gently with one of those disposable chopsticks that look like balsa.
See how you fare but I doubt you'll get rid of the pitting.

When I first started, the shaves took so darn long that I was getting water and soap spots during the shave! If this is the case with you, keep a towel or sponge on hand to wipe the blade down.

Originally Posted by Wayne1963

When I first started, the shaves took so darn long that I was getting water and soap spots during the shave! If this is the case with you, keep a towel or sponge on hand to wipe the blade down.

I have started wiping it on a dry sponge for exactly that reason.

I think I will have a go at the polishing tonight and post a photo of the results!

I'm not sure if it is the water (alone). I have a Ralf Aust, that I put aside for a few moments. It had a rest of thick lather - the way it sometimes gets at the end of the shave. Consistency that is not washed away by holding it under the faucet - Anyway, when I then cleaned the blade it had spots exactely where the lather had been. Under the loupe they appear white(ish) and I can't easily get rid of them (tried Q-tip and Autosol, but don't want to risk the edge).

The blade does not seem to be impressed by water alone (at least not for a time of a normal shave). Normally I don't use running water but toilet paper ( gentle one ), but I did last time and got no additional spots

Maybe someone else has watched it that way too.