Thread: Start to hone.

You can even use your other stones to lap with for regular use (not for the initial lapping to true them flat)...ie I use my 3K to lap my 12K after I use it to remove any glazing. That way it's nice and clean for next time!

Originally Posted by Geut

... Is it wise to buy a very cheap ebay razor (GD-like) to practice before using a good razor ?

Might probably been seen this or that way.... If You now have a professionally honed razor, it will be just a little bit sub optimum when it needs to see the stones in about half a year or a year - depending on Your stropping. So in order to bring it back, it might just need work on the high grid stones.

If You get a cheap one, You don't know anything about its bevel, angle and sharpness and might have to do a good amount of work on it in order to bring it to the level Your used one is in. Work that You might never have to do maintaining Your good razor. So You're spending time and money on a product You're not really willing to use. On the other hand, it's good for getting the feeling.

Now, that I'm into it, I would say, "go for the good one". However I very well remember how I felt when I touched the stone with an edge for the first time. And that was a very old one in a state of scrap metal, where we both only could win. ... yes, starting with a razor, that is not Your favorite is not necessary, but probably the right choice.

Like someone mentioned earlier, GD's need their shoulder stabilizers ground down, and because they are made of such bad quality stainless steel, you're very likely to break the blade while doing so (like this http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ect-razor.html). Trust me, not worth it unless you want something razor shaped to spread butter on your toast with.
Do yourself a huge favour and learn to hone on a razor in GOOD condition.
I remember reading one of Glen's articles/posts where he goes over what to look for in an ebay special but can't seem to find it. Here's one to read http://straightrazorpalace.com/begin...st-2012-a.html

A Naniwa 12K is a fine finisher and probably the best value for the money of any polishing hone there is. Many don't progress further from it. Those that develop HAD (it happens) may experiment with pastes or Jnats, Escher's, Coticles, etc and progress to get an edge that is smoother and sharper (at least in their minds, lol)

But, at this point you are not honing, in my opinion, but conducting final polishing. Honing, to most of us, is in the 3-8K grit range. Ideally, you will eventually want; 1) bevel setter (800-3K; 1K most common) 2) honing (3-8K) and 3) polishing (8K and up) ex; 1K for bevel, 5,8K for honing and 12K and nat of some kind for polishing and super polishing. This is all relative to a point though. For lapping I would have a dedicated lapper and not mesh different hones over each other- I would only do that in a pinch. No hone brands are completely superior to the others. Each has their strong and weak points. You can't go wrong with Norton, Naniwa or Shapton.

If you only wanted to get 1 hone right now and your razors are in fairly good shape then I would go for the 4/8 Norton. Then you have the extreme high end of bevel setting and low end of polishing and can 'hone' in between. If you could only have 2 then I would get a 3/8 or 4/8 combo plus the 12K Naniwa. If you want the full Monty then I would get: 1,(3 or 5),8,12 and your favorite (or what you think will be your favorite) super polisher plus a DMT 325 for lapping.

Oh and I'll add that I did buy a Naniwa lapping plate but it was not flat (the hone was flatter). So expect you may have to lap the lapping plate. Haha -eventually we'll get to the question of how'd they make the first flat thing...

First i'm going to get my razor honed by a pro.
That way i know how it should be.
I'll buy a 12k and a lapping plate so i can maintain the edge.
The coarser stones can still come later when i need them.

Does the bevel has to be set on a new "factory-edged" razor ?

Thanks,
Dieter.

IMO yes. Although I have received a good factory edge on a new TI and a really bad edge on a Dovo best. The TI was 5 minutes and the Dovo was an hour. I believe in setting the bevel. You won't have to do it again for a long time. unless you ding it on the sink or overuse pasted strops. And this way you know its set. Most sharpness problems are the bevels are not set.

Originally Posted by RoyalCake

Oh and I'll add that I did buy a Naniwa lapping plate but it was not flat (the hone was flatter). So expect you may have to lap the lapping plate. Haha -eventually we'll get to the question of how'd they make the first flat thing...

Yeah naniwa lapping plate CAN be not flat. I think it's a bit inconsistent and makes sense for everyone to check whether theirs is by pressing it against a glad door or something... Mine is perfectly flat.

There is always the back side too...

Originally Posted by kwlfca

I remember reading one of Glen's articles/posts where he goes over what to look for in an ebay special but can't seem to find it. Here's one to read http://straightrazorpalace.com/begin...st-2012-a.html

http://straightrazorpalace.com/begin...tml#post736914 There ya go !!! That was a fun project

That's exactly it. Awesome article!