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Thread: "Best" Brush for $100
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11-13-2014, 02:40 AM #1
The badger hair all comes from China, but as I understand, the high end brush makers such as Simpsons, Thater etc. knot the hairs themselves. So unless you are knotting the badger hair yourself, I would assume that most if not all artisanally made brushes are made with badger knots from China.
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11-13-2014, 03:18 AM #2
Go on ebay and buy a vintage brush that you like for $10-25 including shipping. Cut off and grind out the existing knot. Replace it with a premium badger from golden nib for $35. Now you have a great brush that you like for about an afternoons worth of labor and $60-65.
The easy road is rarely rewarding.
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11-13-2014, 03:31 AM #3
Shhh don't say that too loud
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11-13-2014, 04:51 AM #4
That is, unfortunately, correct. Additionally, there is the issue of badger blondes. Seriously. An incredible amount of badger knots from China direct have been dyed blonde to increase the price. If you think you can get a real two band knot for less than $50, think again. I happen to have followed the purchase price for Chinese badger hair in high quality, and it has risen dramatically over the last three years.
And peroxide does funny things to hairs. For example, it makes them a lot softer. But if you take a Chinese import "super $INSERTFAVOURITEBUZZWORDS high $WHATEVER $AREAWHEREHUNTINGHASBEENILLEGALFORYEARS" knot and compare it to a Thäter, Shavemac or Rooney, you will notice the difference.
And since longevity was an issue, one should keep in mind that chemically treating hairs with peroxide makes them brittle, too. Just like water that is too hot, or aggressive cleaners like Borax.
Get a Thäter, and it will last for decades if properly treated. Thäter have been in business for more than a century, and I have seen some of their brushes from the 80s and 90s. Still in good shape. My go-to brush, a 26mm two-band fan (thank you kindly, Lynn) has seen almost daily use for six years now without any noticeable effect.
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11-13-2014, 06:04 AM #5
I don't mind the vintage thing, but unfortunately I don't have the tools or time to work on a vintage brush and make it a new brush. Custom brushes tend to look really cool, but to be honest I'm least concern with the looks of the brush. I'd say that the $100 I'm willing to spend is mainly for longevity. If I'm going to spend good money (for my budget) on a brush, it'll be the only brush I use and I want it to work great for a long, long time.
Thanks for all the help.
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11-13-2014, 11:53 AM #6
Simpson Colonel X2L in Best Badger. This brush is a MacGyver....does everything, well made and reasonably priced. End game....
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11-13-2014, 12:12 PM #7
I guess its been said but the brushes that you can have made for you will be as good as anything you can buy from the big names ,, for instance pixelfixed brushes with exotic woods or ivory, beats plastic any day and he uses the best knots he can buy, or walleyeman brushes , some really top notch stuff ,, and someone who will make it the way you want it , very personal and someone you can talk to if there is a problem ,, and for not much more money than you want to spend , there are some great manufactures out there ,, just think about custom also ,, tc
“ I,m getting the impression that everyone thinks I have TIME to fix their bikes”
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The Following User Says Thank You to tcrideshd For This Useful Post:
Hirlau (11-13-2014)
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11-13-2014, 12:31 PM #8
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11-13-2014, 12:58 PM #9
Interesting designs. But does he tie his own knots? Or does he use the aforementioned Chinese import knots? In which case - all sensitivities about slave labour set aside - nothing whatsoever can be said about their longevity. Or does anyone have any tangible proof that these knots will survive for a reasonable amount of time?
And either way, how exactly do they compare to a Thäter? My reason for asking is that when I recommend a product over another, I personally have always tried both. Would not make much sense to compare them otherwise, would it?
Have fun,
RobinLast edited by RobinK; 11-13-2014 at 01:14 PM. Reason: O tempora, or mores. And stuff.