Thread: Finishing a Wooden brush handle

The best "waterproof" finish I've found for a brush so far is epoxy (an epoxy designed to be used as a finish).

I first prep my wood to around 320 grit (this makes it finish ready, but if you go much smoother you won't get as strong of a physical bond between wood and finish), then I mix up my epoxy very carefully and pour it into a new cup after it's all been mixed (eliminates the unmixed residue problem).

Then I separate a part of the epoxy into another cup and cut it 50/50 with acetone. I rub the wood down with a quick pass from an acetone dabbed rag (all while wearing gloves to make sure I don't get the wood oily again) and give it a seal coat with this thinned mixture.

After the seal coat is dry (I wait 24+ depending on the mix instructions), I hit it quickly with some wet 320 paper... dry... wipe with light acetone, and apply a full strength coat by pouring, brushing, whatever until everything is coated well (very well!). Be sure to get over the collar area and however much you need to in the hole area to seal the wood that will contact water.

Then I hang it all to dry (usually from a wood screw turned a few threads worth in the knot hole). The epoxy will drip, and you may have to get some bubbles out, but when it's dried 100% (I go 2 days here) you'll be able to sand the spot where it dripped even with the rest of the finish and it will look great.

That said, there is lots that can go wrong.. but this is the best way I've found for wooden handles. I have done tung oil, varnish, poly (of all kinds), tung oil/shellac/poly etc. But as with everything here YMMV!

best of luck

Dave

I do a finish similar to Dave, but I find that thinning epoxy with solvents causes long term issues in adhesion and color. I choose to first heat the handle to a point where it is warm, but still quite easy to handle. This allows the thinning of the epoxy with no adverse effects. I also do not allow the seal coat to fully cure before application of the second coat. Being that this epoxy system does not use a solvent I have no worry of an uncured coat affecting the top coat. I also believe this to cause superior bonding between coats.
All of this is done with the handle mounted to a reversible slow turning motor. This keeps the epoxy from dripping and allows for a more complete flow causing an even finish.
Just some thoughts. Take them as you wish.

-G

Originally Posted by deighaingeal

I do a finish similar to Dave, but I find that thinning epoxy with solvents causes long term issues in adhesion and color. I choose to first heat the handle to a point where it is warm, but still quite easy to handle. This allows the thinning of the epoxy with no adverse effects. I also do not allow the seal coat to fully cure before application of the second coat. Being that this epoxy system does not use a solvent I have no worry of an uncured coat affecting the top coat. I also believe this to cause superior bonding between coats.
All of this is done with the handle mounted to a reversible slow turning motor. This keeps the epoxy from dripping and allows for a more complete flow causing an even finish.
Just some thoughts. Take them as you wish.

-G

I'll try that heating thing and see how it goes... cool tip.

i put 2 coats of tonge oil and buff between coats let it sit over night then buff again, then i dip the whole handel in high gloss fast dry polley, 2 coats, and the finish has held up for 3 years i have made all my brushes and no problems with water, when i drill the hole out for the brush i paint the inside of the hole but not the bottom this gives a good surface for the glue to stick to.

The white marks are from the wax. They shouldn't be a big deal. Do you ever get rings on a table from a wet cup? same deal. Any surface treated with wax does this at some time (not when brand new, though). They should wipe off easily.

Look for a finish called Polycrylic at the hardware store by Minwax. It is a water based clear finish topcoat. When dry, it is waterproof.

bill

i wonder how that would hold up over the long run

It would be great to see some photo's!
Sam

Finish to 600 grit,6 coats of artist grade linseed oil cut 50/50 with zippo lighter fluid applied over 6 days sanded between coats.
Polish with renwax,renwax will not turn white or waterspot,all the carnaubas will.

The reason I like tung oil - I get mine from Don McIvor - is that it can be touched up with a quick coat at any time in the future. Any kind of varnish - poly, spar, whatever, is much more difficult to touch up. I've never tried epoxy, so can't comment on it. I will try it sometime. For what its worth, I've had major problems getting varnish finishes to dry on oily tropical hardwoods, which are about all I turn for brushes. I'm working on an old barber style right now, with a home brew black plastic top, and a tulipwood bottom - pictures to follow.