Thread: homemade shave brush

Hello, gentlemen I hope that I have posted this in the right area if not I do apologize.
So in my quest to be a master at wet shaving I have another quest to accomplish shaving brush handle. Now I know I know it has been discussed and talked about and then some. I even have the 411 on how to go about it. However, I do have some intriguing questions that I like some answer if not help. I do plan to go the route of wood. Not sure as to which wood I am going to choose. I have looked at the olivewood but I am not to familiar with it so. I know many have used the Cocobolo so any thoughts or suggestions shout them out.
1. I plan to use lumber but I know in one of my finds someone mention using wood from the woods lol. Has anyone done so? How did they go about it? Any info on that would be interesting.

2. When it comes to gluing the knot I know to use epoxy. Does brand or type matter? Any suggestions would be great.

3. The biggest question that is just driving me crazy is the finish. I know that CA finish, tung and the list goes on of finish to use. My question is which one? I know each one has different effects. I just want something that will protect the wood from wetness.

Thanks so much for answering the millionth time.

Many of my turnings are from wood that either I have personally harvested or that I have had harvested for me. Lately with the run for exotic woods this has become more difficult, but I still love the process from living tree to living art.
Harvested wood must be slabbed to remove the pith before it is allowed to dry this will reduce the chances of detrimental cracks. With spindle stock I tend to cut it to spindle sizes on my bandsaw then allow it to dry in either my kiln (refrigerator with bulb) or in my drying house (shed). I always take into consideration the warpage that will be suffered and the end checking by making the piece a little wider and a lot longer than the finished piece. I will then coat the ends with a sealing wax, but I have heard of people using everything from latex paint to melted paraffin. The wood is then stacked to allow full air flow around the piece and stickered to limit the amount of warpage from the weight of the other wood. I have a constant rotation of drying and dried woods I always rotate so that I have selected stock available and am not wasting anything. It can take me anywhere from a couple of months to a couple of years to fully dry the piece and it can sit around my storage for a couple more years before I use it. Even then some of the thicker pieces are still slightly damp and those I will rough turn into an enlarged shape to remove much of the mass and assist in further drying.

I have used many different epoxies and I don't feel that brand makes a huge difference, but there are certain preferences regarding the setting of the epoxy. I use a slow set epoxy where others use a fast set. I also have use an epoxy with a chemical limiter in it which causes the reaction to stop after some time. This type of epoxy is difficult to find and quite expensive in small quantities so I suggest just using a standard.

As for finish I let the wood and my mood decide the finish. If I can create an effect with a certain finish I will use it. If I know that the owner will be rough on a finish I chose something else. Many people will hype a specific finish, but many times it is just because that is what they are comfortable with. I, too have some finishes that I am comfortable with and instead of discounting the finish I try to expend the energy to learn more about that finish. That being said there are still many finishes that I do not prefer for brushes. despite being exposed to water brushes spend most of their life dry and because of which finishes can be broad, but remember that every finish has its maintenance. CA and epoxy will scratch and readily show it, nonhardening oils breath better allowing any internal moisture to escape but they have to be regularly applied, shellac can become quite moisture resistant but it takes many months after application for this to happen.
As of right now I have used hardening and nonhardening oils, poly, shellac, lacquer, CA, epoxy, wax and melted acrylic (not the stuff you can buy) as finishes on brush handles. All of my brushes are still in use as far as I know.

Unfortunately most of the questions that you asked are hotly debated subjects among turners and as such they make finding information difficult for someone just learning. What I have found in turning over the last 10 years is that most of these subjects are so hotly debated by driving forces among marketing and lack of knowledge and experience by most involved.

Im considering tuning some brushes my self, i have only turned a few things. The my plan is to start with a green branch turn it to the correct outer profile than the pocket for the knot. Next the piece is so small i plan to drop it in a jar with Linseed oil, paint thinner, and red chilly powder than let it set for several weeks.

the idea the the finish will allow the water to leave the wood and be replaced with the oil.. well see how it works.

I turn alot of brush handles,truth is very few woods are meant to live in wet invironments regardless of finish IMO.
three I use alot are real Lignum vitae and some of the delbergias such as cocobolo,both are extreamly dense and have very high oil content (40% by wgt for lignum)
ebony is also a favorite because the grain pattern is so tight it is virtually waterproof just with oiling and a high grade wax finish.
One thing I do suggest is finish the inside of the knot hole with several coats of CA before setting the knot,any type of two part epoxy works for me.

Wood and water just dont get along and sooner or later the water will win.
That said its possible to have a nice looking wooden brush that will retain its good looks for a long time.
As already mentioned, lignum, olive, ebony and any hard, close grained, dense wood is suitable. Beech is another one that is used by many brush manufacturers as its cheap and durable. It can also be stained.
There are many more suitable woods that can be used for shaving brushes if you choose carefully.
I prefer to finish only with oil and an occasional wipe with a shaving or mineral oil will keep it looking good as it ages.
I seal the wood with a thinned shellac mix first before I build up a few coats of the oil I use and I, like the previous poster, seal the hole before setting the knot.
Varnishes on wood don't look right in my opinion and they change the feel of the wood.
CA woudnt be my choice either,,its fine for pens and other small items but unless its done absolutely right the water will soon get under it and you'll need to do it again which is difficult with the knot glued in place.
Hope this helps and good luck with your brush.
regards, beejay