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Thread: Silvertip in African blackwood

  1. #21
    Senior Member bruseth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY View Post
    What Pixel said. I use HSS tools, so wood like this dulls the tools after one project. I can get away with refreshing the edge with a slip stone, which works well. But you can only do that maybe twice if your lucky. Then its back to the bench grinder.

    The finish is a paste wax that's carnauba wax based. I put it on while its spinning on the lathe and also rub it in the handle with the lathe off, in all directions, to really work it in. I let that sit for 5 or 10 min, lathe goes back on for polishing. I do that all twice. Then, one coat of conservators wax (Ren wax) is then applied to protect from fingerprints and water spots. Then buff that out too.
    Thanks for the info. It's a beautiful, simple finish that doesn't detract from the appearance of the lovely wood. A bad finish would have just destroyed all your fine work.

    Well Done! Keep up the great work.
    bruseth

    Kenny

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Name:  oo 002.jpg
Views: 75
Size:  38.8 KBThats the beauty of hardwoods,They truley look better highley polished and protected with wax.

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    Senior Member irish19's Avatar
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    So the Ren wax will keep it from water spots & fingerprints, eh. That's good to know. I've been using about five coats of poly over Danish oil, but from what you're saying that might be overkill.

  5. #24
    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irish19 View Post
    So the Ren wax will keep it from water spots & fingerprints, eh. That's good to know. I've been using about five coats of poly over Danish oil, but from what you're saying that might be overkill.
    Huh, tell me about it!!! I've done lots with poly and also poly over tung oil. Some people really like that look and I'll continue to do some that way. But some woods lose their beauty when you start spraying high gloss poly on them. Steals away some of the beauty in the wood IMO. Its also a pain to get that poly to look just right. Takes a good hand to get the right amount sprayed on without it sagging or running.
    Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....

  6. #25
    Senior Member irish19's Avatar
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    I usually brush on the initial coats and then use a final coat of the Minwax wipe-on as it dries quickly enough to minimize dust getting in the finish. Hate dust!!

  7. #26
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Look into the long forgotten ways of doing french polishing,Pumice and oil,rottenstone and oil.You will get a glow on hardwoods you cannot duplicate with any plastic finish.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelfixed View Post
    Look into the long forgotten ways of doing french polishing,Pumice and oil,rottenstone and oil.You will get a glow on hardwoods you cannot duplicate with any plastic finish.
    My Cocobolo espresso machine handles are fine after 6 years from using that method. I finished gunstocks for extra money as a kid.
    Secret is the use of "real" boiled linseed oil, not chemically processed.
    ~Richard
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  10. #28
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geezer View Post
    My Cocobolo espresso machine handles are fine after 6 years from using that method. I finished gunstocks for extra money as a kid.
    Secret is the use of "real" boiled linseed oil, not chemically processed.
    ~Richard
    Linseed oil is great stuff to a point.
    If you use artist grade Linseed I think you get a better result because it is clear,not yellow.I use winsor and Newton.
    Another trick is to cut it with Lighter fluid (naptha) by about 30%,Than you have birchwood casey tru oil.
    Geezer and kwlfca like this.

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