Thread: Need advice on a good wood glue

Another thought - when gluing oily tropical woods, wipe with alcohol (most any kind - lacquer thinner, etc.) before gluing.

Originally Posted by skipnord

Another thought - when gluing oily tropical woods, wipe with alcohol (most any kind - lacquer thinner, etc.) before gluing.

Good point,I use Acetone. Here is one I just finished,5/16 dowel all the way thru.Buff horn,lapis recon,purple heart.

I was going to say the same thing about acetone. That is a gorgeous handle there. Trying something like that has always scared me. Someday, but I think I'll stick with the basics until then.

I really like the wood and the design of the bowl. Well done.

Thanks. They're made out of spalted ambrosia maple. I love working with spalted woods as the grain can be really spectacular. Not always, though, as the brush shows.

I note there is a fair amount of wood used in the shaving biz. Soap comes in wood bowls, some scuttles are wood, brush handles, and scales. What finish are you all using to protect from water?

By the way, fine brush and bowl!

Originally Posted by jgjgjg

I note there is a fair amount of wood used in the shaving biz. Soap comes in wood bowls, some scuttles are wood, brush handles, and scales. What finish are you all using to protect from water?

By the way, fine brush and bowl!

Thanks. I use Danish oil first and then about five coats of polyurethane. Pixelfixed likes Renaissance wax on his brush handles, but I use poly because I want the bowl to stand up to regular use. The problem with poly is that it can't be easily repaired while wax can.
Thanks again for the compliment.

Originally Posted by irish19

Thanks. I use Danish oil first and then about five coats of polyurethane. Pixelfixed likes Renaissance wax on his brush handles, but I use poly because I want the bowl to stand up to regular use. The problem with poly is that it can't be easily repaired while wax can.
Thanks again for the compliment.

My brush handles are also heavily oiled as part of my final polishing with rottenstone, using walnut oil or artist grade clear linseed.Than I apply 6 coats of ren.
A bowl that really never drys out is a diff animal.

Hidestoart:

I've used two things: transfast dry dyes (reds, oranges), and carbon black. If you use the dye, you'll have to experiment a bit. With one brand of epoxy, the dye remains chunky and unsatisfactory unless I first mix it with the hardener. With another brand, it's immiscible with the hardner but miscible with the resin. But they do work.

I've also copper poweder (Pyrotechnic Chemicals and Supplies, Sparklers, Fireworks Fuse) but that not really colorant, is it? Guess it's how you look at it. The West System 3 website has a good article, complete with pictures, on types of colorants, their effect on bond strength, how much to use, etc.

One note: there are some instances where the dye turns "pastel" or "grey" when you sand it. I've found that this ugly disappears with a coat of laquer or CN.