Thread: Need advice on a good wood glue

Hello All,

I have a very large bucket of exotic woods about 2”x 2”x1/4” . I want to turn them but was wondering if someone could recommend a good glue to use. In years past I used a boat glue that I mixed up with water and used an electric setting gun to cure with. The setting gun was much like a taser today. About 6 moves later I can not find the name of the glue or the setting gun.


On to today’s problem, any idea of a all around wood glue that will bond lets say coco bola to Purple heart and still take a turning?

Thanks in advance

Do the joints need to be water proof?
It makes a huge difference in what kinds of glue are acceptable.
Jody

2 comp epoxy , It's marine-graded and bonds and coats fiberglass, wood, metal, fabrics and other composite materials

and suuuuper strong

I guess the quick answer is yes. I do want to use some in brushes. I have all kinds to play with and just don't want to blow them apart

School glue (Elmer's school glue) is strong on wood, BUT it may not be water proof.
Wood glue is similar - do not know if standard wood glue is water proof....

With either of the above, I would think you could turn the wood on a lathe (I presume that is what you mean to do). But it may not be good with water.

Epoxy is definetly going to be ok with water.
I vote for 2-part Epoxy (not the quick set kind).

Jody

2 part epoxy but also dowel them.

In addition to my earlier post, please accept this invitation to join:

WoodNet.net - The Woodworker's Online Resource

The woodnet braintrust is the center of all woodworking knowledge in the whole universe...including for turning (but excluding carving in the round...a sad deficit).

I'd go for Titebond as well, I use Titebond original almost exclusively for guitar making and repair. I don't know about the waterproof version but the original grabs very quickly there's not a lot of alignment time so accurate positioning is essential.

When you laminate two different types of wood together using any sort of glue, you need to take into account that every species of wood expands and contracts differently. Also what needs to be taken into account is that any wood, glued end grain to end grain, using a standard wood glue will NEVER bond. That being said....

When I turn a shaving brush my end grain is always aligned at the ends of the shave brush. The reason I do this is to show off the beauty of the grain in the wood. If I laminate 2 pieces together for a brush handle, I have to use an epoxy. Reason is, I'm gluing end grain to end grain. Now for brushes, these things are seeing constant moisture, and constant drying. If the wood isn't sealed properly, the two pieces will move at different rates and eventually rip that glue joint apart. Dowls, holes for the epoxy to sink into, and roughing up the grain when gluing, are all ways to combat this problem.

Hey Guys, I was thinking a fluted dowel would be the way to go, am I on the right track in this thinking? Also my thought was to keep the dowel 3/8" - 1/4" short of the finished end and boar hole.

I suppose the oil in the diffrent woods has been my main concern though.