Thread: Brush finish question

There has been a lot of chatter on the "other forum" lately about soaking wood brushes in poly for a day or so as a preferred method. Has anyone tried this? Does it work better than other methods? How about soaking in poly in a vacuum system? My concern would be does it ever dry on the inside - I thought poly was an air-drying product, not chemical drying.

I think that it would work eventually, but am wondering is a day enough? and then there is drying time. I believe the purpose of a vacuum chamber is to speed up the process of pushing air out and product in. I use CA or Danish oil as a finish, all wipe on. I would like to build a vacuum chamber and use Danish oil. I think my end results would look and hold up better with deeper penetration of the product. I'm sure the same would apply to a poly finish.
Interested to see what all the responses are....

I just recently made the switch from high gloss polyurethane, sprayed, to CA. I found that both are vary attractive, and highly durable for a shaving brush. To address your statement about letting a piece soak in Poly for a day is going to find different results from one species of wood to the next. Buck eye burl will soak up any liquid like a sponge compared to cocobolo or Lignum Vitae, which are super high in natural oil content, and will not take in hardly any.

I would like to know what the next step, after letting it soak for a day, would be. Any finish, on any wood piece, can make or break the final outcome. I've seen some poly finishes done perfectly, and I've seen some done very poorly.

Sucking in Poly to a piece of wood, or any other substance that will prevent the piece from taking on moisture is not a bad thing, but is it necessary? I believe it depends on the species of wood.

Not sure how poly would work. However, IIRC, Danish oil is part linseed-a drying oil-so it should eventually cure.

I use a vacuum chamber and a couple of different finishes including Poly

There are some tricks to be learned and there is quite a long thread about it on here.. I will see if I can't dig it up for you

Here

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-products.html

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-products.html


The single biggest hint I can give you is about drilling a 1/4" center hole almost all the way through the handle from the Knot hole down to almost through the base,, This accomplishes two things, it allows the finish to penetrate better and from inside and out, it also allows the finish to dry faster..

Anyone that doesn't know this isn't going to do well with penetration

You leave them under full pressure until the bubbles stop (24 -72 hours) you let them dry for at least a week, longer if possible..

Soaking does little to nothing, once you use a Vacuum chamber you will realize this rather quickly

Originally Posted by irish19

Danish oil is part linseed-a drying oil-so it should eventually cure.

Danish Oil has a terrible smell,i don't want it in my hands
Pure Linseed Oil never dries,mixed with Wax yes and gives a darker tone in the wood.

You're right about pure linseed oil not drying. Boiled linseed oil, however, will. Also, tung oil is a drying oil by its own self and might work for a pure oil finish.
I don't mind the smell of Danish oil myself. I like to use it as a sealer before poly. It really seems to help make the grain pop.

I have use boiled Linseed oil with wax in wood handles,it's fine
You are lucky,some guys use Danish oil with thinner to make it dry faster but even this way i can't smell it.