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Thread: finishing a brush

  1. #1
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    Default finishing a brush

    I've painted cars, finished guitars, refinished pool cues, refinished furniture and other things. I've used lacquer, nitrocellulose, automotive clear coats, oils, shellac and so on depending on the project but nothing that was exposed to water as much as a wet shave brush.

    What your preferences on wood and why? How well does your finish of choice stand up?

    Thanks in advance!!

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Oils and wax,have had wood handled brushs that were 50 yrs old. in fine conditition
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    Dangerous within 1 Mile

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    Is there an advantage over burying it under an enamel?

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake77 View Post
    Is there an advantage over burying it under an enamel?
    Wood,Enamel,water? not a good mix,JMO
    CAUTION
    Dangerous within 1 Mile

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    Senior Member celticcrusader's Avatar
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    If you want to cover a wooden brush in enamel what's the point in owning a wooden brush don't you want to see the true beauty of the wood coming through, use waxes and oil and keep the maintenance up by giving the wood a little covering using your fingers rub in a little renaissance wax then buff off. SHOP Renaissance Wax | TheFurnitureConnoisseur.com
    irish19 likes this.
    “Wherever you’re going never take an idiot with you, you can always find one when you get there.”

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    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
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    My finish of choice now is vacuum treated with oil, dry for a week and then CA over top. The CA gives it that high gloss look, which I like.

    As Pixel and Jamie have stated, a good penetrating oil applied a few times, and then Ren wax gives a very nice look and finish too. I've used this method also on a few of my brushes and love that look too. I find that look to be more of an "antique" feel. A much softer, satin finish.
    Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....

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    Well I'm asking because I am going to be using an already finished pool cue handle. I can sand it down and remove the finish, but when I refinish it, I'm trying to make sure it'll keep the same appearance as when it was a cue previous to the brush. With pool cues, I have an auto finish and a few lacquered ones. They are hard to ding the finish and there hasn't been any separation. I'm thinking going g that route for this project. If it works out ok, the next brush I make will look more like a 1920's Willie Hoppe Titlist conversion that will also have a few curves worked into it to look better. I have some other ideas too. If I can get the giddy up on this and then move on lol

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    I figure I can use the white butt plate and cut just before the windows. The second brush, do the same thing but leave some room to get the other few decoritive inlays in there too.

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