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Thread: So I eventually bit the bullet...
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04-27-2015, 01:04 PM #1
So I eventually bit the bullet...
...and gave it a go - here's the result of a misspent lunch hour.
I'm not sure whether I'm happy with it or not to be honest.
I like the Delrin, both in terms of ease of machining and feel in the hand, although overall it's a little heavy. I also like the slightly translucent look.
Certainly glad I did give it a go though, and I'm happy that I've learnt plenty for the next attempt.
Also the engineering metal lathe is not really suited to creating anything other than very exact straight lines, so creating attractive curves is going to take some practice I think!
If I can find o-rings that are the correct size then I'll put one each in the two grooves, although I'll probably have to make them slightly deeper than 0.4mm, as I think the Black / White contrast will help the overall appearance.
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04-27-2015, 01:20 PM #2
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Thanked: 4826Pixelfixed uses a metal lathe for all his brushes so it is totally doable. He has had a LOT of practice. Some of the guys experiment with laminating different material to avoid the white on white look. Starting and doing is the only way to move forward with skills and ideas. I love the learning, especially the fast learning when you start with a new skill. All you need now is a knot and some soap.
It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!
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PaddyX21 (04-27-2015)
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04-27-2015, 02:46 PM #3
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Thanked: 634Looks dam good to me. If you don't like it finish it and send it over here. It takes talent to do that kind of work. Be proud of yourself.
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PaddyX21 (04-27-2015)
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04-27-2015, 03:55 PM #4
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Thanked: 2027
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PaddyX21 (04-27-2015)
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04-27-2015, 04:19 PM #5
Pix, is right True a blank with a honed carbide or M-2 tool.
My home shop has room only for one lathe. Since my spare cash is from machining, I have an Engine lathe. It also gives me an advantage when making various metal cores and holders for turning other materials.
If, you were to make a tool rest like the one on a wood lathe, you would be able to use wood turning tools on the engine lathe.
My simplest rest one is a piece of half inch square hot rolled with the top edge sanded smooth. Fasten it into a tool holder sticking out about six inches to the left. Raise the top of it to about ΒΌ" below center for scraping turning. That is using the end of the tool to scrape the material away..
Delrin is a pain for hand turning but most anything including Laminated Corian can be turned. You will need to use the higher speeds for turning.
Any sticky or loosely compacted material is not a good idea till you know what you are about. A good grip on the tool is a necessary precaution and safety gear and a respirator is un-common sense.
Have fun and don't get malnourished!
~Richard
Watch a lot of wood turning videos on YouTube!!!!!
NOTICE.. For heaven's sake, to not have the chuck jaws extending beyond the chuck...It hurts a lot!!!! Your left hand is too near the chuck when wood turning. Long stock helps!
I often used a plastic desert plate with a stock sized hole in the middle and larger in diameter than the jaws extension behind the piece I was turning. I often make a turning stick with a disk to bond to the stock on the end. That can hold the plate safety against the jaws.Last edited by Geezer; 04-27-2015 at 04:27 PM.
Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
- Oscar Wilde
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PaddyX21 (04-27-2015)
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04-28-2015, 11:55 AM #6
Thank you all for the advice and support - much appreciated.
I treated the Delrin as if it were Aluminium, medium fast speeds. I turned it up fast when sanding. All done dry as heat wasn't building up very much, probably helped by my cautious cutting!
I used about 75% this tool;
Carefully and smoothly using the wheels to control X & Y, effectively freehanding the curves.
I think I could get considerably better with practice, although I imagine it'll be much easier with hand tools on a woodworking lathe, although perhaps not with somethings as dense as delrin! If I find I'm likely to do more and I enjoy it then I'll pick up a cheap lathe to practice on.
I have got bar stock of Nylon (Green), Acrylic (Clear) and Aluminium, and out of hours / lunchtime use of the work workshop, so I'll persist a little to get a feel for it and see how I feel about it then.
I have three 21mm pure badger knots slowly making their way to me, so I'll need to at least make handles for those before deciding if brush making is for me or not
I should definitely add that I'm no machinist either - I learned to use industrial lathes of this type at school (a fair number of year ago) and haven't even seen another until last year. Our machinist(s) have been slowly training me in our few mutual spare moments, but the main one has left and not been replaced. I would class myself as knowing just enough to be dangerous, but I have fairly well developed common sense and know enough to keep myself out of the workings! It will be in tool choices etc where I come unstuck, not really knowing what each one is designed for, only what I have used them for previously. For example, I have only used the above tool for chamfering previously, but it seemed to fit what I needed with cutting faces on both edges and offering me flexibility.
Anyway, to stop rambling on and get to the point - all advice is appreciated!!
Thanks
P
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04-28-2015, 02:45 PM #7
Doin' good so far!!
The only material that I would caution you about is the Acrylic. If it is extruded, it probably has internal stresses and can blow up if a stress is relieved. Cast acrylic rod is a winner. If the surface of acrylic gets very hot...to the flow range, it than shrinks back and makes a lot of stress and can break up later if chilled or in contact with a rapidly evaporating after shave.
Continue having fun!
~RichardBe yourself; everyone else is already taken.
- Oscar Wilde