Thread: first brushes. A 12 step program

A friend gave me some black walnut. Here is my attempt at making some brushes.

step one through 4



step 12



One of my favorite brush designs is the Col Conk long handle, so that was my pattern. Gives good whisk action in the scuttle.

Tall slender shapes, good whisk action from those for sure.
Nice job!

I have changed to Tung oil. The Ballistol (mineral oil) would not soak in, but the tung oil gives much better water repellent action. I am hoping to turn another handle soon for my silvertip badger 24mm knot. I will not be using CA, but simply tung oil.

I learned the hard way about CA, and should have listened to Pixelfixed when he told me that CA cracks. Had a few that cracked very bad. Was able to fix most but some were toast. The only wood brush handles that CA should be used on is stabilized handles. This ensures that the wood will not expand and contract, which is the main problem with a CA finish on unstabilized wood. I've sprayed Polyurethane on handles in the past, and did multiple coats with good results. It has a lot stronger tensile strength when the wood is moving.

Loving 100% Tung oil at the moment. Makes a great waterproof finish and makes the grain come to life.

so, what's the secret to getting a gloss finish with Tung oil? i like the simplicity of use but i can't seem to get anything but a mat finish.(and what am i going to do with those handles i've used CA on?)

The Beall wood buffing system. I'm not sure there's any other way to get a high gloss finish out of Tung oil other than buffing. It's kind of cheating cause you're putting Carinauba wax over it, but the final result is stunning. Here's a quick vid of me buffing a lid made of African Blackwood that I finished with Marine Teakwood oil. I think I did 3 coats, 48hrs drying after final coat, then to the buffing wheels. After buffing you should let the whole thing sit for 24hrs. to let the wax fully harden.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BH_CFLRA...llymossy&hl=en

Hopefully that link works.

As for the CA, I've done many in CA, and it seems that the ones that remain in constant humidity with no change, do just fine. When they go across the world, and the climate changes rapidly is when I've seen the worst issues. I still have 2 brushes sitting in my bathroom, unstabilized, and the finish is perfect still after 3 years.

If you guys really like tung oil give Waterlox a try. It is just a modernized version with some improvements. Seals better, cures harder but still acts just like tung oil, great absorption and final finish is beautiful. Holds up great on calls, stocks, grips and kitchen knives that I have made, and is used on counters and butcher block as well as hardwood floors so its tougher than just erl. Very similar to Tru oil, but I like it better.

woodcraft sells it.

Originally Posted by AKmik

If you guys really like tung oil give Waterlox a try. It is just a modernized version with some improvements. Seals better, cures harder but still acts just like tung oil, great absorption and final finish is beautiful. Holds up great on calls, stocks, grips and kitchen knives that I have made, and is used on counters and butcher block as well as hardwood floors so its tougher than just erl. Very similar to Tru oil, but I like it better.

woodcraft sells it.

I've really wanted to give waterlox a try. I had a supplier who carried it locally here, but recently they have stopped carrying it. Not sure I want to dish out any extra money for shipping, it's already very pricey stuff. I'm sure \I'll find some somewhere.

Yessir , its getting steep!

Over the last couple years it has really gone up. I just paid $36 for that can. I use it on my knives so that can goes a long way provided I keep it closed tight.

Tru oil is another good one, small bottles can be found at most gun shops. My two favorites.