Thread: Marble Handles

Good to know, pixelfixed. I actually didn't turn this cedar handle and don't plan on turning the marble. I figured I'd just try to do it by hand - i.e. with a set of wood chisels, knives, sand paper, etc. I did use a drill gun to bore a hole for where I plan on dropping a knot in, but as for now it was more of an alignment thing...just wanted to make sure I was centering the handle on the right point. If only I had my own tools...then I would have been able to do this a lot better. Until I save up some money, I'm limited to the times my buddy will let me use his shop!

Wow! where to start?
Yes stone can be turned on a lathe, but as pixelfixed pointed out it is messy. The cracks can be dealt with by applying a thin CA to them. Marble and granite need a grinder, soapstone and other soft stones can be turned with hand tools. I have turned stone brushes. none are currently known to exist. Out of all of the stone turnings that I have made people have a tendency to drop brushes for some reason. They can and will break. With the mass and force needed to turn stone I would avoid drill press style lathes.
One method of coating a porous stone for water resistance is to coat in an epoxy finish.
Many brush handles have been carved by hand, since I no longer need to carve by hand for my job, I refuse to do so as a hobby, but there are many great examples out there. One method of avoiding the symmetry issue of a handle is to purposefully make the handle asymmetrical. The shape can still be pleasing to the hand and eye, while disguising the fact that you didn't use a machine to make it.
Just to warn you, your wood handle there will likely crack, its just the nature of wet wood with pith.
That video is a piece of work. I am actually tempted to contact Ed to discuss that video. It has some valid points, but for a new turner please avoid this video.
I really need to just start taking the time to post videos on turning.

As above, the vid is a piece of work and should be avoided by any newb lathe operaters.
On a side note, running wood and metal lathes is one of the most gratifying pastimes that exsist,have fun, be carefull.

I like the asymmetrical design idea...had never thought about doing that. As for the wood cracking, you - and I'm sure many others here on the forum - guessed it. I'm fairly new to woodworking so I didn't contemplate the possibility of it cracking. Fortunately, the piece only cracked on the top "bulb", so I'm considering taking that off and leaving the remainder intact.

How would you avoid that in the future, let the wood dry thoroughly before working it?

You sure you want to do one of those Michelangelo David things with a Badger Knot?☹

If you want wood to not crack you must remove the pith (center), wax the ends to slow the drying process, and allow the wood to fully dry. This can take years depending on the thickness and it will still likely crack at the ends. If you want a piece of wood to use it would be better to just purchase some from a retailer. I would suspect that this brush you made will continue to crack as it ages. If you want some specific wood and are having trouble finding it please feel free to send me a PM.

Interesting. I guess I'll chalk this up to a learning experience Hopefully all of this knowledge will help in any future attempts