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Thread: Polyurethane disaster
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07-02-2013, 03:50 AM #1
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- Jun 2013
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- Wahiawa, Hawaii
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Thanked: 0Polyurethane disaster
I just finished my first handle, and glued in the $28.00 super fine badger knot from the 'nib. I thought it could use one more dip in the poly . I dipped it, and hung it from the bristles to dry. Apparently, I dipped too far, and some poly went up over the edge, and wicked up into the brush, ruining the lower half of my new badger knot. Now, a beautiful, unused new badger brush is an abused paint brush. ANYONE KNOW HOW IF THERE IS A WAY TO DISSOLVE MINWAX WATER BASED POLYURETHANE?
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07-02-2013, 04:49 AM #2
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- Feb 2013
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Thanked: 4828nail polish remover will soften the urethane as long as it is water based however I have no idea what it will do to the knot. I imagine the badger is somewhat resistant. I have used similar things to rescue bristle paint brushes but never a shaving brush. Hopefully someone else will give you more concrete advise. Anything that will take it out of the knot will also take it off the handle so you will have to be quite careful
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07-02-2013, 05:16 AM #3
Based on the time of your post, the polyurethane is probably already cured sufficiently; however, if not, you could try to use mineral spirits, naphtha or similar petroleum distillate to soften the varnish (if oil based) and try to remove it manually. If it's already cured, you'll have to use a pretty powerful methylene chloride based stripper (found in your hardware store) that will probably also do wonders on the existing finish of the handle and the knot itself. Personally, I would chalk this one up to an expensive lesson learned. I've never tried to finish a brush after setting the knot, so I don't have experience in stripping varnish or epoxy from a set brush; however, I used too much epoxy (and not to mention 24 hour epoxy) on my first brush knot when setting it and it wicked up the hair over the top of the handle by about 2mm. Luckily, since I was new to making brushes, I hadn't set the knot deep enough to provide enough backbone to the knot and the resulting epoxy overspill provided that rigidity lacking from the knot depth...I still use that brush all the time...
...so it may not be that bad of a thing. I'd personally let it cure and see if you can stand the aesthetics of it. If you can, I'm sure the performance won't be diminished (depending on how far up the knot the poly traveled). Hope this helps.
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07-02-2013, 05:42 AM #4
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- Nov 2012
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- Across the street from Mickey Mouse in Calif.
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Thanked: 1184With no pictures I can only imagine. I would just let it set and see if it's usable at all like K37 said. If not then chalk this one up to a hard lesson learned. The rest sounds like a mess not worth going through to me. Is the cost of time and material more than a new knot ?
Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.
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07-02-2013, 01:28 PM #5
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- Jun 2013
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Thanked: 0THANKS REZDOG. The NPR dissolved the WBP in the knot. Good as new.
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07-03-2013, 03:18 AM #6
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Thanked: 1184Yeah ... sounds good so far. I probably would have gave up. I think most npr is acetone based and/or ethyl acetate, isopropyl alcohol, and some other stuff called acetonitrile (which is carcinogenic) All those things will dry the heck out of everything. Maybe what's in the shave soap will help save it ? Let us know what happens to the knot in time.
Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.
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07-03-2013, 12:24 PM #7
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- Jun 2013
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- Wahiawa, Hawaii
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Thanked: 0That was the first badger knot I have seen before except for the vintage brush I have , which is more coarse and yellow (BOAR?). The hairs around the outside edge were more like a dogs undercoat, really thin and dry and whispy , and making a curled up kinky mess around the handle of the brush when it got wet. It stunk too. The NPR dissolved the WBP all out of it pretty fast,even after 12 hours or so, ALMOST as if it was never there. It has a slight residual stiffness for which I'm thankful, but still doesn't sell me on that mushy soft grade of badger brush. I'll buy a stiffer knot next time I make a brush for myself. I've gone back to the vintage brush, and my son wanted the "oops" for himself. I'm glad my first project was NOT to restore that old brush, I LOVE that thing. THANKS FOR EVERYBODY'S INPUT
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07-03-2013, 02:54 PM #8
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- Mar 2011
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- Corcoran, Minnesota
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Thanked: 170If you like stiffer brushes, try TGN's black badger. Or, get 3 black badgers from Ace for 18 bucks. Personally, I like TGN's better.
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07-03-2013, 10:34 PM #9
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- Feb 2013
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Thanked: 4828now that the disaster has been averted where are the pics?
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07-04-2013, 12:57 AM #10
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- Jun 2013
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Thanked: 0The movers already got that knot when they packed out my sons room today, but I have the larger one that I was going to use for a replacement that I'd like an opinion on.... I've got this old brush that I LOVE to use and won't be replacing , sitting next to a new super silvertip badger knot, 22mm. What grade of badger does this look like, and what would make it clump together so much towards the center all the time? (it actually helps building the lather, compared to the softer brushes) . It says "made rite sterilized badger cased 325".
Last edited by jonnywhim; 07-04-2013 at 01:00 AM. Reason: I forgot to add the photographs