Thread: Cleaning Firearms ..... What Are You Using ?

For decades I used Hoppe's No. 9 solvent for bore cleaning, and Hoppe's Gun Oil to lube. The usual brass bore brush, cleaning rods, cotton patches. I watched Hickock 45s youtube vid on cleaning and started toothbrushing the receivers of semi autos, leaving them dry, the way he showed. I like that.

The bore snake came along and I love those. Kind of a lazy man's way of doing it. Today I cleaned 4 semi-autos that needed it. I used Break Free CLP to clean and Miltec to lube. The CLP is a first for me, but I've read so many guys use it, that I figured why not.

So what is your solvent and lube of choice ?

Way back I used the brass bore brushes and cotton patches to clean the bores. I would plug the barrel at the chamber, fill the bore with Sweets 7.62 Solvent, let sit for a bit and then pour it out to clean the copper fouling out. Keep in mind this is going back 30 years but I see they still sell Sweets.

The FN FAL rifle got a thorough cleaning of the gas return tube, gas regulator plug, gas tappet rod and spring. Those were lightly oiled for storage but swabbed dry before use to try and keep the carbon build up down. The breach block carrier, breach block and internal rails got looked after too. Lot of extra work compared to a bolt action rifle.

Those were the days, miss they sometimes.

Bob

I use the Hoppes No. 9 solvent and lubricant because it is available almost anywhere and it works for me. There are probably better products out there but I'm okay with the Hoppes products.
I have used Break Free and didn't care for it. I tried a sample of Miltec and liked it. I might buy some if it was on the shelf when I need more cleaning supplies. Honestly, I don't get out to the range much anymore.

I have a couple of bore snakes. I couldn't believe how nice a barrel looked after using the Bore Snake for the first time on a Auto 5 that hadn't been shot in @ 20 years.

I still keep a bottle of No. 9 around because I LOVE the smell of it! ((Almost as much as I love No. 7...OLD No. 7, that is ))

As a gunsmith, when I'm getting ready to work on a gun that requires a detail strip, I use Simple Green. It is safe on all finishes and cleans everything off. However, with it cleaning everything off, everything is also lubricating oils. So, the need to properly lube after reassembly is vital.

For non-detail stripped guns, I use (exclusively) Pro-Shot products, out of Taylorville, Il. Back in the early '90's I use to shoot competitively with John Dameron Sr., which was the founder of Pro-Shot. He has since passed away, however, John Jr. has kept the company alive.

Lube wise. For oils, I use Pro-Shot clp OR (don't laugh, I've been doing this awhile) 30 weight motor oil.

For AR's and other high temp bolts, I use (again, don't laugh) high temp wheel bearing grease. Any grease that has molybdenum disulfide (Moly D) is great stuff!


Edit: I should add. When I use Simple Green, after cleaning with a brush and rinsing with water, I heat the parts to 150 - 175 F for about 15-30 mins. This allows for the water to evaporate, in places I can't get to. I have a cerakote oven, but a kitchen oven works too.

Being Old School, there is nothing as addicting as Hoppe's No 9 gun owners perfume. I'm a fan of G96 as it will stop rust and it smells good too. The G96 is my reach for lubricants for most everything.

As to new products, I rate SEAL-1 Plus, over Frog Lube. I notice that I have to use a lot less solvent to remove jacketing or leading than I used to. When applied properly, stuff just doesn't stick. The last couple years I've been doing a lot more shooting in a dry desert environment and have been very pleased with Gunzilla for it's non-ionic formula in a dusty place.

I guess I'm old school too.
I've been using Hoppes solvent and oil, brass brushes, patches and an old toothbrush since I was a kid.
Gotta love the smell. You could walk into a room blindfolded where someone is cleaning and know what is going on.
My philosophy is why change...it works.

Pete <:-}

Sweets 7.62 for cleaning and then the frog lube. I will have to follow Mikes lead and try the Seal 1. I have used Simple Green it cuts thru carbon like nobody's business.

To Bob:FN's are built like tanks, used to have three of them. They and the M 14 are the last of the true battle rifles IMO.

Ballistol.....

I've been out of the gunsmith business for at least 35 years. I still have a large econo size bottle of #9 in the garage.... Everything else is gone.

Most of the lubricating we did was with wd40 in the gal can... a light mist and then blow it all off until it felt and looked dry. At -40c, when you have a polar bear coming at you, the last thing you want is a firing mechanism slowed down by gelled lube. At the range in more hospitable climates, Birchwood Casey Barricade was our goto, with a bit of Hoppes gun oil where good old oil was the right thing to use.

I seem to recall we had some more serious stuff for fouled barrels, plugged the barrel at one end, filled it full and let it sit for 24+ hours before brass brushing the daylights out of it using good Parker Hale coated cleaning rods. Looks like you can't get them anymore... Dewey coated rods look similar. I am however happy to see Parker Hale style cleaning jags are still made... they were the best in my book!

My *other* favorite scent from those days were Dykem steel blue layout dye... It's probably a *safer* formula now, not the toxic goodness of the olden days......

Regards

Kaptain "The 17 ACKLEY HORNET was my favorite wildcat after the .35 Whelen" Zero

I use #9 and Eezox.