Thread: To Mulch or Not To Mulch

Originally Posted by Jimbo

Just re-read my post with that in mind John - sicko aussies walking around their back yard in skimpy undies with nails sticking out of them...

OK - thongs = flip-flops. (Sorry if I caused any confusion).

James.

I didn't think much of it ---- made sense to me ----


Justin

Originally Posted by PuFFaH

Do you not have to aerate the soil also with a fork or such implement? Is also not advised to sprinkle sifted soil back over the lawn after the last cut of the year?

I cut my small patch of grass to 2-3" and never let it get above 4". I have to say it's the dog p*** and s**** I have the trouble with

PuFF

I too have to deal with gifts from my two puppies (a 45 kg German Shepherd and a 30 kg Lab)--no advise other than be careful with that string trimmer .

With regard to the aeration, unless you are removing plugs of soil, you are doing as much compaction as aeration and the only reason to aerate is if you have compacted soil (same holds true for the thongs with nails sticking out the bottom). So unless you want to rent a power aerator, don't bother.

Sifted soil on the other hand could be of use, but only if you've sown seed or let your lawn grow enough to produce seed. Overseeding is best done in the autumn when it tends to be a bit cooler and there is sufficient moisture for germination and establishment. A light covering of soil will maintain moisture and protect the seed from preditors (mainly birds, but also small mamals).

Cheers,
Ed

Don't forget about Gypsum (calcium sulphate), that is supposed to be very good for adding to heavy clay compacted soils.

Cheers
John

Ok so since ED seems to know what the hell he is talking about
let me ask a couple of questions.

I live in FL, have a mixed lawn of Bahia, Bermuda, some straggly St Augustine, and lots of OXALIS Crab and various other broad leafs

The soil is semi sandy but not total trash.

I want to have all Bermuda. It is super drought resistant, grows short, is thick and just looks nice.

I have been applying 2-4-D aka Ortho Weed-Be-Gone.
It's a waste of money.
3 applications and no joy !

SO here is my plan

I have access to unlimited peat muck/topsoil (think dead lake)

I've spread it 1/2 inch deep in areas already as a test.
It's SO black it seems to burn the grass.

Should I
herbacide now , spread new soil and then seed.

spread new soil now and spray whatever manages to pop through, then seed when it cools

other options??

if I had enough Bermuda I would use atrizine (sp) but it works as a pre-emergent and I won't be able to seed for like 2 years or something.

BTW, screw the bahia ,hate the tall seed stalks.

Originally Posted by gratewhitehuntr

Ok so since ED seems to know what the hell he is talking about
let me ask a couple of questions.

I live in FL, have a mixed lawn of Bahia, Bermuda, some straggly St Augustine, and lots of OXALIS Crab and various other broad leafs

The soil is semi sandy but not total trash.

I want to have all Bermuda. It is super drought resistant, grows short, is thick and just looks nice.

I have been applying 2-4-D aka Ortho Weed-Be-Gone.
It's a waste of money.
3 applications and no joy !

SO here is my plan

I have access to unlimited peat muck/topsoil (think dead lake)

I've spread it 1/2 inch deep in areas already as a test.
It's SO black it seems to burn the grass.

Should I
herbacide now , spread new soil and then seed.

spread new soil now and spray whatever manages to pop through, then seed when it cools

other options??

if I had enough Bermuda I would use atrizine (sp) but it works as a pre-emergent and I won't be able to seed for like 2 years or something.

BTW, screw the bahia ,hate the tall seed stalks.

Start with Glyphosate (aka Round-up) it is a completely indiscriminate killer of plants--a photosynthesis inhibitor. Also realize that you may not get complete kill after the first application, but don't make the mistake of applying anything over the recommended rate-much better to use two applications (if needed) about two weeks apart. After you get complete burn of existing lawn, spread your soil...for best results, till it in to a depth of 4-6inches. Sow your new seed and lightly cover with fine soil or a very light layer of mulch. Keep moist and wait...and wait...and wait...bermuda takes a LONG time to germinate, typically between 14 and 28 days depending on conditions.

Good luck,
Ed

Oh, one other point, bermuda does just fine in deep sandy soils...a bit of peat/muck certainly won't hurt, but is not absolutely necessary.

EFL

Could we try this again Ed?

This time let's take into account that the lawn has about 20% Bermuda mixed in and I would love to NOT kill it if possible.

Selective killers that don't act as pre-emergents?

Originally Posted by gratewhitehuntr

Could we try this again Ed?

This time let's take into account that the lawn has about 20% Bermuda mixed in and I would love to NOT kill it if possible.

Selective killers that don't act as pre-emergents?

Sorry, already took that into account...the problem with grasses is that if you find a herbicide that kills one, it will probably take them all out. I'd have suggested Oust rather than glyphosate, but I figured you would want to replant sometime within a year of herbicide application. Glyphosate may not be as quick or thorough as Oust, but it has no residual effect.

Cheers,
Ed

Originally Posted by ForestryProf

Sorry, already took that into account...the problem with grasses is that if you find a herbicide that kills one, it will probably take them all out. I'd have suggested Oust rather than glyphosate, but I figured you would want to replant sometime within a year of herbicide application. Glyphosate may not be as quick or thorough as Oust, but it has no residual effect.

Cheers,
Ed

ok thanks

I'll just keep going the selective herbicide route until it kills what I want or manages to kill everything anyway.

Not that I don't value your opinion (expertise)
I just don't care THAT MUCH (plus it's not my lawn)

I have considered just planting the entire thing in Mexican heather.........