Thread: Help - need car advice

It could also be a charging system problem. If your charging system is performing a bit sub-par, short errands with little run time in between will drain the battery without giving it enough of a chance to charge it up.

This thread is why my drem car would have no engine electronics at all. The starter might be electric but I would want a crank backup. The kind of car you can work on. The kind where if it breaks you know where.

Originally Posted by izlat

Wow - that's great, thanks guys!

The car is Toyota Celica 2001

Yes, I have been playing with old cars trying to adjust mixture, idle, etc but this is a newer system.

I will check the distributor, have to research the main relay thing... If these don't work I may need to go to the dealer. The car hasn't had it's second major tune-up so maybe I just need to do this - flush the injectors, etc. But if they are the problem, I would not expect the car to start easily when it is cold or has had some rest... Oh, I remember that I did change one of the oxygen sensors several years ago, I guess it could be a problem again

Thanks a BUNCH!
Ivo

O2 sensor only controls fuel- air mixture. Normal o2 sensor will last 30000 - 50000 miles. If your o2 sensor is the heated type, it may last 100000 miles. I don't think this is your problem. If you have a multimeter, you can pull the distributor cap and pull the rotor. Find the the + and - connection points and read the resistance between the two. Should be around .03 -.06 ohms. If not, you might get away with just a cap and rotor replacement. I don't know if your car has an ignition sensor, but you might check it. It might be a good investment for you to buy an actron scanner, plug it it, read the codes, fix the problem. Good tool to have on hand.

Or you could go to your local AutoZone/Oreilly and they'll read the codes for you for free

Originally Posted by izlat

• Car starts cold without any problems
• However, if I stop several times to run short errands: starting is progressively harder every next time
• If the stop is for a longer time (say 1 hr) starting is perfect again

Ivo... can you give us more detail on "starting is progressively harder"... does the engine turn over just as quickly as when cold but doesn't start, or does the engine turn over sluggishly?

Did the problem develop suddenly or has it been getting progressively worse for some time?

Originally Posted by Windcalmer

My money is on the Main Relay. What make and model is it?

If its your main relay it will start again after its had enough time to cool down some. There is a fix for it if its a Honda. Had the same problem on my Accord. So if you too have a Honda PM me and I will help you through it.

I was going to bet on the CRX, as I know that is a serious problem with them, but I guess I was wrong.

Originally Posted by Sticky

Check the fuel pump power relay. When relays are hot the contacts/electromagnet winding can fail, becoming reliable again as they cool. Could be another relay too, but fuel relay gets the high probability guess from me. A Chilton's or similar electrical schematic will show you where to place a voltmeter to test it. I think the manual has a troubleshooting guide in it too, usually runs about 20 bucks.

My Honda Accord had the fuel relay problem.

Go out and drive your car around, let it get nice and hot, and bring it back to your house. When you get home, turn everything (A/C, radio) off so that you can hear, and turn the car off. Then turn the key to the ACC (accessory) position. You should hear the fuel pump turn on, briefly, to pressurize the fuel system. If the fuel pump isn't priming the system properly then the car will take longer than usual to start, if it starts at all.

This indicates a main relay problem. On your car it may be easy to replace, on the CRX it was expensive, and the easy way was to re-solder or reflow your relay.

Originally Posted by azjoe

does the engine turn over just as quickly as when cold but doesn't start, or does the engine turn over sluggishly?

What he said!

Now, if the engine is making that pitiful growling noise that gets slower and slower, then it is probably something else.

I recommend getting a 1954 series1 Landrover It barely has a wire in it Done me proud for 12 years now without a single problem (the missus doesn't like it for its meager comforts and noise insulation ....women eh what do they know!)

PuFF

Originally Posted by PuFFaH

I recommend getting a 1954 series1 Landrover It barely has a wire in it Done me proud for 12 years now without a single problem (the missus doesn't like it for its meager comforts and noise insulation ....women eh what do they know!)

PuFF

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...products_id=52

That'll fix one of the problems! This stuff is very good, if you're comfortable doing that to your car. The difference in my friend's Ridgeline was phenomenal and I'm planning on putting it in my Civic Si when I get a chance.

... anyway ...

izlat any progress?

Actually I was looking for a newspaper article I found not long ago about a guy not far from here who built a wood bodied 1930's style hot rod out of all found and scrp parts. The thing used a lawn mower engine and got something incredible for gass miliage while going about 40. It was also street legal, though barely because the headlamps weren't all that bright. I wish I could find a picture


Here is a different one:

Thanks again to all contributors!

Joe, the engine seems to start just as well (not sluggishly) but it doesn't catch. Btw, the DRL don't come up untill it really starts, if that's any help at all

Update: I tried the ACC position and indeed I can't hear the pump. Since this car has hardly any insulation, I am thinking it really doesn't prime and am leaning toward the main relay explanation. Will ask my wife to turn the key to ACC while I have the hood open trying to hear better.

Thanks a lot!
Ivo