Results 21 to 24 of 24
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03-19-2008, 01:05 PM #21
well if the snap-ons don't work out well (and I hope to shout that they do for the prices that snap-on charges) try a set made , or at least marketed by, Chicago-Latrobe. I cant remember where I got the set that I use on the farm... it might have been the Grainger catalog. I have not broken one yet and I ask a lot of them.
+1 on what Bruno said about preventing broken heads in the first place! I don't use WD40 as a penetrating oil.... PB Buster is the penetrating oil of choice! It is very expensive but worth every penny. Also, nothing helps a stuck bolt along like some heat from a propane torch. Not enough to significantly swell the bolt but enough to loosen the bond between the threads. I have gotten some monumentally stuck bolts out that way without snapping the head.
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03-19-2008, 01:25 PM #22
If you have access to the other end of the bolt it becomes easier.
simply drill a hol in the bolt, thread it with normal right turning thread, insert a threaded rod / long bolt and simply keep turning until the broek bolt falls out of the hole at the end where the bolt head broke off.
And again, lots of WD40Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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03-19-2008, 02:56 PM #23
Skip the WD-40, buy PB Blaster. It's WAY more effective for freeing stuck fasteners. WD 40 is a lubricant with some penetrating properties- in your situation you want a penetrating oil that works quickly- I've used em all PB Blaster wins hands down. Usually WD40 needs hours to work effectively whereas Blaster works in minutes. Seriously- even if you need WD40 for other things- carry the blaster with you for freeing bolts. Also, if you need lube where you're using WD40, look into Fluid Film instead- it's longer lasting, more lubricating, better at rust prevention, non petroleum based (wool fat based!) thus it's non toxic!
Also- left hand drill bits are your best friend with broken/stuck fasteners- the heat generated by drilling combined with the left hand turning will often loosen the broken end without needing an easy-out. I personally like the straight fluted ones- they look like a square tap instead of the spiral or self drilling ones. The square ones seem to outlast the others.
Keep a propane torch handy too- heat is your friend.
My mod is any fastener that looks like trouble gets blastered before a wrench comes near it, if it breaks is gets blastered (again if necessary). Next is a center punch to mark for the drill (shock can free it) and left hand drilling if the bottom or back is not accessible for vice grips. If still necessary more blaster and the straight easy-out- if still needed, the torch.
Steps change depending on the situation at hand- I had 2 broken off bolts in the front axle of my truck some time ago- a mig welder and some spare hex nuts (welding the nut on the broken bolt) heat losened and nut gave me a head to unscrew it out.
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03-19-2008, 08:07 PM #24