Thread: Oiling/Cleaning a Ruger GP100 or any other Revolver

Originally Posted by heelerau

I do the same as above, only wipe the gun with a dry flannel rag first to get any moisture or paw prints off as they are acidic, then wipe over with an oily rag. Nothing wrong with the silicone rag, just I don't have one. Just make sure you don't leave any excess oil in the barrel or chambers. Doesn't hurt to wipe out your barrel and chambers before loading so you don't get any excess pressure problems. A toothbrush and bore solvent is a good thing for any hard to get at corners, particularly under the extraction star at the back of the chambers.
Modern primers are not corrosive so cleaning is pretty straight forward.


Cheers

Gordon

Yes, the oils from your hands are not good for gun metal.

Originally Posted by crazycliff200843

Yes, the oils from your hands are not good for gun metal.

But the gun in question is stainless steel, the oils on your skin won't bother it.
Photoguy

It also depends on the environment you're in. Humid/dry.

Just for the record, stainless steel is stain resistant steel, not stain proof steel. Stainless steel will stain and or rust given the right conditions and enough time.

I'll bow to the guys who still dabble in guns and who know the latest in lubes/cleaners... I've been out of the loop about 23 years but on a wheel gun, the number one cause of accuracy loss is still the improper use of a cleaning rod and in particular those aluminum jobs. Grit can get embedded in the soft aluminum rod and works like a lap on the bore at the muzzle. Keep the rod away from the edges and you can clean to your hearts content.... I was fond of Birchwood Caseys (SP?) Sheath for protection, but I think it's changed names since back then. And yes to using Hoppes #9 for cleaning... gad, I wish they made a cologne with that scent!

Regards

Christian

Originally Posted by kaptain_zero

Just for the record, stainless steel is stain resistant steel, not stain proof steel. Stainless steel will stain and or rust given the right conditions and enough time.

I'll bow to the guys who still dabble in guns and who know the latest in lubes/cleaners... I've been out of the loop about 23 years but on a wheel gun, the number one cause of accuracy loss is still the improper use of a cleaning rod and in particular those aluminum jobs. Grit can get embedded in the soft aluminum rod and works like a lap on the bore at the muzzle. Keep the rod away from the edges and you can clean to your hearts content.... I was fond of Birchwood Caseys (SP?) Sheath for protection, but I think it's changed names since back then. And yes to using Hoppes #9 for cleaning... gad, I wish they made a cologne with that scent!

Regards

Christian

You might be able to put a little behind your ears. Just don't get it in your eye.

Originally Posted by Navaja

You should use an OTIS breech-to-muzle kit to clean your revolver, and Mother's Mag and Aluminum cleaner for the front of the cylinder, Never go from the muzle to the breech, you may damage the barrel crown and ruin the gun's accuracy.

dead on. I use the otis kit constantly, it's the best damn cleaning tool made by man.

I use hoppe's 9 for all non-barrel parts (powder solvent) and hoppe's benchrest for the barrels (copper solvent) unless I have been shooting lead, in which case hoppe's 9 is fine.

I lube with militec1+heat treat for a dry finish,
or, if i have time, I will completely disassemble, airbrush on some norrell's moly resin and then bake it in the oven. never needs lube again and will wipe clean with a dry rag, absolutely the best way to go, but it's a mess and requires a lot of time up front.

Originally Posted by kaptain_zero

And yes to using Hoppes #9 for cleaning... gad, I wish they made a cologne with that scent!

I have a funny anecdote about hoppes #9 .. albiet off topic...

I guess I was right out of high school and my weapon of choice was a shotgun. I like shooting trap/skeet as well as hunting. Anyways, I went hunting one day and I realized my shotgun needed a cleaning. So, home I went and cleaned the shotgun and myself for that matter. I had a date that particular night so as I was walking out the door, I saw the little hoppes bottle just sitting there and I thought it would make a good cologne. I threw on a dab and went out on the date. My date was freaking out over the scent ! She really liked it. All night long she was fascinated with that smell. Every time she commented on my cologne, I just cracked up with laughter.

Eventually, I told her what that scent was and she didnt believe it. So every date I had with her, I would wear the hoppes as cologne just bcause she liked it so much.

I should have married that girl.

+1 on the remarks about the muzzle. The crown is where the rubber meets the road and it's condition is most critical to accuracy. It is also the most delicate and easily damaged part.

Take care how you wield your cleaning rod.

I think there is an acessory to the traditional cleaning kit that fits onto the muzzle area to center the cleaning rod. It might be worth picking one up.

Originally Posted by kaptain_zero

... gad, I wish they made a cologne with that scent!

Now I know I'm not the only one!!

Originally Posted by Whiskers

So every date I had with her, I would wear the hoppes as cologne just bcause she liked it so much.

I should have married that girl.

Originally Posted by Whiskers

I think there is an acessory to the traditional cleaning kit that fits onto the muzzle area to center the cleaning rod. It might be worth picking one up.

They are usually brass and fit in the end of the barrel so you don't ruin the crown area, although I have seen people take a dust cap that fits snug over the barrel and put a hole in the center to run the rod through.


Bob