Thread: Honing Kitchen Cutlery

I'll second knifeforums.com's "in the kitchen" section as the ultimate source for sharpening info. Simply put, you can't get better than hand sharpening on Japanese waterstones. Unfortunately, you'll probably discover that your Wustof's won't hold an edge too long- the steel is just too soft .

If you think razors are an expensive hobby...............

I'm afraid I'm kinda traditional on keeping my kitchen knives damned sharp. I use mostly an almost smooth Chicago Cutlery steel. This still removes a tiny bit of metal from the edge, as do most knife steels. If I want a finer edge I've got a handled 1" ceramic rod for a shaving edge (well, on arm hair). I have the Lansky system, but it's not as fast or easy. If you do buy a steel, check it out first to make sure that it's not too agressive. I believe that one of the german firms makes a steel with two levels of cutting. I'd be afraid to use some of the agressive high-end steels on my fine cutlery. They look like they'd make decent fine hand reamers.



Wayne

Steeling has purpose of straightening the "dings" in the edge, the very same purpose strop does for the razor. So, It is not good idea using grooved, ceramic, diamond coated steels every time. That would be like using pasted strops before every shave. It is best if you use smooth steel before each use, and go to abrasive steel every once in a while if you want to refresh the edge. Couple of weeks ago I home-made my smooth steel from old inkjet printer. Took the rod out, and didn't even put handle on it, and made couple of strokes, it works great. I think a member here, booga, posted this trick somewhere...

Nenad

What you're talking about is what is called a burnishing steel. Ideally, it should be very hard with a mirror finish. Just a larger version of what's used in setting the edge on cabinet scrapers. The ceramic rod I have is very close to that in application. A large burnishing steel is somewhat hard to find, and you may be forced to make do. As we both have found out. A true burnishing steel will only move, not REmove, softer metal. Hmm, I wonder if that would be of any beneficial use on a razor?

Wayne

Originally Posted by bbqncigars

What you're talking about is what is called a burnishing steel. Ideally, it should be very hard with a mirror finish. Just a larger version of what's used in setting the edge on cabinet scrapers. The ceramic rod I have is very close to that in application. A large burnishing steel is somewhat hard to find, and you may be forced to make do. As we both have found out. A true burnishing steel will only move, not REmove, softer metal. Hmm, I wonder if that would be of any beneficial use on a razor?
Wayne

Again, I must reccomend Keith at Handamerican for this one. He makes some grat smooth steels that are large enough in diameter.

http://www.handamerican.com/steel3.html

There is much debate about the use of steels on fine cutlery. Careful steeling on a smooth steel is pretty safe.

Originally Posted by threeputt

Ryan the EdgePro system really is the ultimate in guided systems, but it is a big production just to touch up a few knives. I have the pro system, and also the Spyderco Sharpmaker system. The Sharpmaker is much cheaper, much faster, and I can still get my Tridents to shave very easily. I bought it years ago and it came with a great instructional video, don't know if they still do or not. I could lend you my video if you can't find one. It is basically a "V" stick system, with the Spyderco ceramics. Works like a champ on all my using knives, even serrated edges. For a "show" edge, I still go to the EdgePro. Hope this helps.

Jeff

I'll toss in a second vote for the EdgePro system.
If you do have a good set of Kitchen knives, and really use them to their potential, the EdgePro will pretty much pay for it's self. The Apex kit will pretty much keep every knife in the house in top shape.
This recomendation is comming from a knife-nut however so take it for what it's worth.
EdgePro

I have used the lansky diamond system for years to hone up my utility and kitchen knives but as has been said its a real pain with larger knives. I recently bought a chef's choice electric sharpener (blasphemy) but I got to tell you it does a superb job, better than I could ever do with the lansky system. And once their sharp you can use just the stropping wheel to keep them keen. Too bad it doesn't work for straights!

Tonight I got the Lansky Delux and tried it out. I must say that the Korndog gave good advice that I found very helpful. The article at eGullet.com really helped out. I put a 17/20 double bevel on my paring knife. It took a couple of hours in order to grind the original bevel down to 17?. After that was done I used the rest of the stones to polish down the edge a bit. The 20? bevel came much quicker and I then used the rest of the hones on this bevel. The results don't shave my arm or anything but the knife is pretty sharp. I got out the next closest Wusthof that I have and cut a carrot with both the knives. The paring knife I sharpened cut through so smoothly. I could feel the other knife grinding, for lack of a better word, through the carrot. I think I will try to do my chefs knife next, if I have time soon for a 6 or seven hour adventure. The more acute angle of the paring knife is really noticeable andI am glad that I took the time.

Thanks for the help and I love the new level in sharpness.

Glad I could help. Knifework in the kitchen with a good tool really enhances the experience.