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    Senior Member Fikira's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider View Post
    So you really are after shoes that are maybe a 1/2 size smaller than normal? I'm going to stay away from Velcro, I don't mind the extra minute it might take to take my shoes off. I hate the way Velcro straps end up curling; and at times wearing and becoming less 'sticky'. I'll still give bouldering a go, but only indoors. I didn't think about the height at all on Saturday, I was very focussed; I'd watched quite a ferw videos the night before and tried to emulate some of the moves. Today I walked to the top of Mount Torrens and back, whichj is my recent Sunday morning routine; and my legs and glutes are really startiung to hurt now. The glutes get a pretty good workout climbing, esp given the odd contortions...
    The velcro of the shoes I had didn't become less sticky at all, I can assure you that somethimes you would like to remove the shoes VERY quickly! If You're standing on a piece of half a centimeter it tends to hurt... I'm sorry but I don't think walking is going to help, especially in bouldering, I climbed about 6 years to a 6c-7a (European) level and my muscles still had pains, every route has different moves so you push allways other muscles to the limit, my advise should be, do it slowly, take you're time, especially on the fingers, don't do bidoits and such the first years, watch you're body closely!
    Train the basics very good, especially the feet-work, train heel-hooks with good fitting shoes..... And about shoes, don't buy them too thight in the beginning, buy straight shoes, not curved, the thoes must be curled a bit, check the heel, normally you should be able to test the shoes in the store, be shure if you pull with you're heel on a rock, that it doesn't come off, eventually you will learn after a couple off worned out shoes wath YOU need and how small YOU want it to be,

    HAVE FUN!

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    Plausibly implausible carlmaloschneider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fikira View Post
    The velcro of the shoes I had didn't become less sticky at all, I can assure you that somethimes you would like to remove the shoes VERY quickly! If You're standing on a piece of half a centimeter it tends to hurt... I'm sorry but I don't think walking is going to help, especially in bouldering, I climbed about 6 years to a 6c-7a (European) level and my muscles still had pains, every route has different moves so you push allways other muscles to the limit, my advise should be, do it slowly, take you're time, especially on the fingers, don't do bidoits and such the first years, watch you're body closely!
    Train the basics very good, especially the feet-work, train heel-hooks with good fitting shoes..... And about shoes, don't buy them too thight in the beginning, buy straight shoes, not curved, the thoes must be curled a bit, check the heel, normally you should be able to test the shoes in the store, be shure if you pull with you're heel on a rock, that it doesn't come off, eventually you will learn after a couple off worned out shoes wath YOU need and how small YOU want it to be,

    HAVE FUN!
    Thanks for all that. I'm not walking for training for climbing, just for exercise generally. Normally I lift weights two to three timers a week and walk once a week; the walk to the top of Mt Torrens is pretty intense. I've always lifted weights, from when I was 16 or 17 or so. I can't remember if I posted the link before, but these are the shoes I'm getting this week.

    Scarpa Thunder Climbing Shoes - VibramŽ XS Edge Outsole (For Men) - Save 31%
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    Plausibly implausible carlmaloschneider's Avatar
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    This is a cool video. I've been looking at my hallway and wondering about lining it with plywood and making a climbing gym...

    Dave Macleod training at home - YouTube
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    Senior Member Fikira's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider View Post
    Thanks for all that. I'm not walking for training for climbing, just for exercise generally. Normally I lift weights two to three timers a week and walk once a week; the walk to the top of Mt Torrens is pretty intense. I've always lifted weights, from when I was 16 or 17 or so. I can't remember if I posted the link before, but these are the shoes I'm getting this week.

    Scarpa Thunder Climbing Shoes - VibramŽ XS Edge Outsole (For Men) - Save 31%
    Then there shouldn't be a problem, good for you! Just watch out for the fingers, people told me that the tendons of the fingers needs a couple of years before they are strong enough, I must say, he was right! (after a couple almost ruptures...)

    Have fun!

    Nice shoes by the way!

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    Plausibly implausible carlmaloschneider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fikira View Post
    Then there shouldn't be a problem, good for you! Just watch out for the fingers, people told me that the tendons of the fingers needs a couple of years before they are strong enough, I must say, he was right! (after a couple almost ruptures...)

    Have fun!

    Nice shoes by the way!
    Ta, yeah, the fingers get sore, don't they? :-)
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    Plausibly implausible carlmaloschneider's Avatar
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    Second time bouldering and third time climbing today. I had my new shoes and I quite like them. The salesman was a climber so he seemed to give good advice, and told us about two outdoor bouldering places in South Australia we can get to easily. I actually bought a size 42, which is the same size as my boots, so these were essentially made small. I have one foot larger than the other so got the size for the larger foot.

    The soles are pretty sticky, but of course I don't really know how to use them yet. We met a guy at the bouldering gym who seemed to have really good technique and he gave us good advice. I kept on forgetting of course and reverting to hauling myself up with my arms. I need to learn the hip twisting thing. I kept on at one problem almost all afternoon, I reckon I can get it next week. We were there for about 2 and a half hours today. I taped my fingers up really well but still lost some skin. This is such a good whole body workout!

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    And the addiction begins

    I just back from the climbing gym tonight as well. Most of us are probably given most of the lessons to be learned on our first trip to the gym but it takes awhile before it really sinks in.

    Going by the picture you posted I'd say you at least now understand why keeping the arms straight on an overhang is important If the overhang is great enough...you can't do otherwise!

    That's usually when the "lesson" sinks in...when we have no choice but it use it.

    The hips in thing helps to keep your center of gravity closer to the wall but in some cases it also lets you reach about an inch higher up with the appropriate arm.

    Using your arms too much rather than the legs works itself out eventually as well. Once you reach the degree of difficulty that you can muscle your way up you won't be able to progress further until you develop better technique...thus eventually it corrects itself
    Last edited by gcbryan; 12-01-2012 at 08:53 AM.

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    Plausibly implausible carlmaloschneider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcbryan View Post
    And the addiction begins

    I just back from the climbing gym tonight as well. Most of us are probably given most of the lessons to be learned on our first trip to the gym but it takes awhile before it really sinks in.

    Going by the picture you posted I'd say you at least now understand why keeping the arms straight on an overhang is important If the overhang is great enough...you can't do otherwise!

    That's usually when the "lesson" sinks in...when we have no choice but it use it.

    The hips in thing helps to keep your center of gravity closer to the wall but in some cases it also lets you reach about an inch higher up with the appropriate arm.

    Using your arms too much rather than the legs works itself out eventually as well. Once you reach the degree of difficulty that you can muscle your way up you won't be able to progress further until you develop better technique...thus eventually it corrects itself
    Yeah, that's what the guy was saying and demonstrating, that extra reach you get. I've been watching lots of videos, too. The straight arm makes sense, it uses less biceps. You know when you started straight shaving and you liked it so much you wanted to do it all day but couldn't? Well I'm finding this the same. I'd like to climb for four hours but can't.

    I'm also trying to rationalise my other gym workouts. I normally do chest shoulders and legs on Friday, with back and legs on Tuesdays, but I'm thinking I may really need a longer break between Friday weights and Saturday climbing. I guess my body will adapt. My son, who I go with, is 22 and 6' 2" has a really long reach. I'm only 5' 7" and even though my 'wing span' is longer than my height I still can't reach as far. I was astonished at what I could reach though. On some holds I keep thinking, 'I can't reach that' and subsequently reach it.
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    Senior Member Fikira's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcbryan View Post
    And the addiction begins

    I just back from the climbing gym tonight as well. Most of us are probably given most of the lessons to be learned on our first trip to the gym but it takes awhile before it really sinks in.

    Going by the picture you posted I'd say you at least now understand why keeping the arms straight on an overhang is important If the overhang is great enough...you can't do otherwise!

    That's usually when the "lesson" sinks in...when we have no choice but it use it.

    The hips in thing helps to keep your center of gravity closer to the wall but in some cases it also lets you reach about an inch higher up with the appropriate arm.

    Using your arms too much rather than the legs works itself out eventually as well. Once you reach the degree of difficulty that you can muscle your way up you won't be able to progress further until you develop better technique...thus eventually it corrects itself
    Together with the "hipswing" you can practise with really stiff arms, imagine you can't bend both of your arms, only move with your shoulders, you will experience the power of the pec-muscles and the reach in combination with the shoulder stretch, don't know if it's clear...
    For example, you hold with your left arm, keep the arm stiff, pull with you left pec , your thorax will move, the reach with the right arm become larger, this together with a strech of the right shoulder and see how far you can go with a stiff right arm, should be pretty far!

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