Thread: Revived birds eye duckie

Been a while since I was able to finish anything with nursing school nipping at my ankles; so here's one I finished for a member here...oh, and stay tuned, I got another one on the way as well, with some pretty cool red g10 scales. This duck was in pretty poor shape when I got it; rust, deep pits, bit of a frown, you name it. Unfortunately I didn't think to get a pic til' after I had soaked it in evapo rust. The scales were shot. So, we decided to go wood, but keep kinda close to an antiqued feel, and the look of the scales; however, okiwen wanted a shape not so traditional, but I didn't want to go as far as I did with the other blade I am working on for him. The scales are birdseye with brass liners and a custom mixed shellac for color, and a CA finish. All brass hardware, and keeping with the duck theme...well, I threw in a paduak wedge finished in true oil for a bit of an old rubber duckie feel ( I'm weird I know, but I've made peace with it). The pics don't do the birdseye justice really; they just pop when the light transitions over it; as well as the grain kinda floating in the background. As always thanks for looking everyone!

That looks great,as a side note,keep at the nursing program,My youngest (28) just got her masters in nursing,works in a small Norcal Hospital and garners a huge Salary.

Will do; it's been hell in a hand basket for sure, but it all pays off eventually. Plus I like fast paced 12hr shifts versus slow 8hr.

Originally Posted by tiddle

Will do; it's been hell in a hand basket for sure, but it all pays off eventually. Plus I like fast paced 12hr shifts versus slow 8hr.

You want fast paced in Nursing? than become an O.R nurse

Could you possibly tell us more about what kind of trouble that razor had?
It seems to have lost 50 years worth of steel, and from the pic without scales on it, it doesn't seem quite clear as to why.
I'm sure it needed to lose all that steel, it would just be nice to hear you talk some on it

+1 on that and the position of the pins. Just curious.

Looks really nice. Add another curious mind as to the pin positioning.

Sorry, crazy week, ok here was the reasoning for every one wondering:
I went at this blade with kid gloves at first b/c 1. it's a duck 2. it isn't my duck. There was a good bit of rust on this especially on the old bevel (red flag there). so rather than just jumping in and sanding with fingers crossed; I opted to give it an evapo-rust bath. the stuff is great, it doesn't bond or attack the steel like say royal jelly or the like; it only bonds to oxidized steel i.e. rust by chelation. Yes, obviously from the first pick it takes the shine off, but all of the really dark spots on the blade were rust, and the darker the gray the deeper the rust. So if you look at the edge you can see how dark it was there; pretty deep rusting. Oh, and sorry for the pic it was on my old camera phone that I sent to okiwen, and the black is where another razor was in the pic that couldn't be saved so I photo shopped it out for this post . Next I tried setting a bevel with the blade mocked up in the original scales. Bevel would not hold so I broke out the loupe and sure enough...pitting all the way down from heel to tip (cheesed up). So I started taking the pitted steel off and checking under 30x mag until I got good clean steel; unfortunately that's just how much it took I'm sorry to say. For the scales the member wanted something non traditional, but I didn't want to get waaaay out there on this one cause the ducks are classic in their own right ya' know? Now for the pins; personally I like compact "fitted" scales. I'm not too big on the scales that just look too long or bulky for the blade w/ almost a 1/4" of space between the wedge and the blade. The wedge and blade here have about 1/16" gap; and b/c the scales are so compact the pinning was really out of necessity. If you could see the wedge outside of the scales you would see where I pinnied it is just in front of where the angle starts to ascend to the back of the wedge; otherwise the scales wouldn't have flexed right and ran a risk of cracking the CA or worse the birds eye since it's such a light wood to begin with. The third pin I wanted to follow the angle of the scales from the pivot pin, but moving it forward would have put it right against the heel of the blade, so again it was out of necessity. Thanks for the questions; and I'm still new at the restoration thing, so tips, tricks, and hints are always welcome. Have a good one guys!