Thread: W&B in Horn

I think it is incredible how you cleaned up the blade. Your results are fantastic. Again, love those Horn scales. There is talent and then there is TALENT. Guess what?

Nice save! Never would have guessed something that looked that bad would have turned out like that.

Thanks for the tip on evapo rust, I had never heard of it and so usually I remove rust using a sandpaper, but that has it's limitations.

does it also remove simple stain? and I guess you still buffed it up after the evapo rust right?

nice job on the scales by the way

Originally Posted by Bram

Thanks for the tip on evapo rust, I had never heard of it and so usually I remove rust using a sandpaper, but that has it's limitations.

does it also remove simple stain? and I guess you still buffed it up after the evapo rust right?

nice job on the scales by the way

One other note with the Evapo-Rust, I use a flat pan, fill with the stuff until the razor and scales are completely covered. If you try and put it in a glass, with some part of the blade exposed, it can create a small line on the blade where the liquid stops and the AIR starts, learned that with a test blade. Now it easily sands out, but the way to avoid this is to lay the blade or blades flat and completely cover with the stuff, they turn out really nice. I've never had a blade with goldwash on it that I've tried, so I don't know how it would effect that.

mycarver,

It's not my intent hijack the original post, but it seems that there's significant interest in EVAPO-RUST; maybe we should start a thread in the workshop section?
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I picked up some EVAPO-RUST this morning, and can hardly wait to try it out. I've been reading on their website, but I still have a few questions:

• Once the rust has been removed, you prevent immediate re-rusting by dipping the object and allowing the EVAPO-RUST to dry on the metal. I assume that this won't provide long term protection?
• Can you apply wax or polish on top of the dried EVAPO-RUST?
• Have you tried any of the patination techniques (i.e. vinegar) after using EVAPO-RUST?

No, I understand.

I don't use Evapo-rust . never had, never will so I can't answer your questions.I have no interest in it.

My question though is once you remove the rust what then? Knocking off the stuff you see takes minutes. I'm sure the Evapo-rust will do the same thing. But you're left with pits and what not. Now what do you do? It won't remove pitting, it doesn't leave a fresh smooth surface etc. only sanding does that.
You could save yourself some time and money by just knocking off the rust with a bit of sand paper and be at the point you'll be at after a bath in rust solvent in literally minutes.
There are no short cuts. Eventually you'll have to apply a bit of elbow grease.
Just like with cars,,, there is no miracle tune up in a can. You either fix the problem or live with it. You don't pour something in the tank and it'll run like new if there are physical problems with the car. Sooner or later you have to break out the tools and get dirty.

And I don't think you dip a razor in some juice and you'll have a like new razor. You'll have a razor minus the obvious rust and be left with whatever pits the rust created. It won't replace metal or remove it to a mirror surface.
I don't mean to sound crass,, but I believe that's the reality or everyone would have jumped on that band wagon years ago.

And @ Bram,,, sandpaper has no limitations. Every piece I post was done with sandpaper. The only limit is how far you're willing to push it or how well you can use it. There are sandpapers commonly available that can polish out eyeglasses. I think that's some pretty fine sanding. It works.

Here too with cars.Prepping the finish for that mirror smooth gloss is done with sandpaper just prior to the final polish. Go figure.

Originally Posted by mycarver

This one was a bit Iffy. But it worked out OK.
Cleaned up the blade ( too bad about the stamp) and did up some Honey horn scales. Curved the wedge to fit the blade nice and snug.

Mark my friend, that is one fantastic restore!

If I ever come close to that I'll have said that I did a restore! As we've discussed, 'I clean up' razors and you actually 'restore them' :

Nothing wrong with that work Bubba!

Keep up the Great Work!

Thanks my friend.
I did four "restores" today and I think you'll get a kick out of the one I'll post tonight.
Thanks again for the kind words. I appreciate it very much coming from a guy who claims to just clean up razors!

Great save! Those are some beautiful scales, well done!

I meant to direct these questions to phrank!

Originally Posted by Dzanda

mycarver,

It's not my intent hijack the original post, but it seems that there's significant interest in EVAPO-RUST; maybe we should start a thread in the workshop section?
-----------
I picked up some EVAPO-RUST this morning, and can hardly wait to try it out. I've been reading on their website, but I still have a few questions:

• Once the rust has been removed, you prevent immediate re-rusting by dipping the object and allowing the EVAPO-RUST to dry on the metal. I assume that this won't provide long term protection?
• Can you apply wax or polish on top of the dried EVAPO-RUST?
• Have you tried any of the patination techniques (i.e. vinegar) after using EVAPO-RUST?