Thread: fili almost didnt make it home that night........

I love to take old messed up blades and make them shave better than brand new......but this one...... I was more than a little worried about this fili, worth a go or send it to its final resting place?
(patience please on the posts, ive got a few coming right up with pics to upload)

so I decided to give it a go, sanded to test the steel out a bit, see how it sounded and felt, check what there might be to work with. the steel underneath the surface was very sound but a HUGE issue was that the blade was broken down and honed right to the belly of the blade and a VERY uneven cutting edge.
Honing a damaged blade - Straight Razor Place Library
the link above describes some of the techniques I employed to overcome the issues. apart from the described techniques I reground with a plain hollow grind on a 2" contact wheel to bring the new cutting edge above the previous belly. this obviously changed the geometry substantially from it originally was but did not bring it outside the realm of acceptable geometry for superb shaving.
the heel needed a lot of attention to flow well with the reground blade. the simplest way for me is to just put a small 45* angle on the heel and then slowly round it off on an old oil stone that I shaped with a shallow groove. ill get pics of the stone at some point.

Bravo!!! I am in the works on an old Sheffield that had no life left. But low and behold a little imagination and trying is coming along great.

Question when you reground the fili, was that on a 2x72 belt grinder?

after tidying up the blade I made scales to fit the adjustments I made to the blade. black g10 suited it well.
Straight Razor Restoration Start to Finish Video Series - Straight Razor Place Library
a fantastic set of videos in the link above shows good techniques for cutting and shaping scales. the techniques used will work for a variety of materials.
this is the finished result, pardon the pics. this thread is to encourage attempting to save what may appear to be lost cause razors. there are parameters that need to be stayed within for a blade to provide a superb shave and it takes a lot of practice to acquire sensitivity to what may be going on with a particular blade you are trying to salvage. for some it may be a waste of time, for me I enjoy taking trashed razors and saving them from the scrap yard. I have many that wont get a passing grade in the end, many others that have surprised me. would a purist or collector want it when im done? maybe not. will it shave with the best razors out there? depends on what you start with and what the geometry will be in the end. does it bring me joy to see another of these old, abused and forgotten "gents" dancing and prancing, singing their tune with the new guys again? a resounding YES!

Originally Posted by ncraigtrn

Bravo!!! I am in the works on an old Sheffield that had no life left. But low and behold a little imagination and trying is coming along great.

Question when you reground the fili, was that on a 2x72 belt grinder?

its a joy to see how they come out in the end isn't it? when they looked so far past saving.
on my 2x72 I only have an 8" contact wheel, this one I used a 4x36 that has 2" wheels. not necessarily "contact" wheels, haha, but again, imagination is what gets them done sometimes right?

Very nice save and a good job reshaping that heel.

Bob

Originally Posted by silverloaf

its a joy to see how they come out in the end isn't it? when they looked so far past saving.
on my 2x72 I only have an 8" contact wheel, this one I used a 4x36 that has 2" wheels. not necessarily "contact" wheels, haha, but again, imagination is what gets them done sometimes right?

I feel ya! I shaped the heel of the current project on a 1x30. This is what I started with after sanding and buffing.

That g10 is gorgeous BTW. Very subtle but nice.

Wow, great save, and way beyond my skill level!

Originally Posted by ncraigtrn

I feel ya! I shaped the heel of the current project on a 1x30. This is what I started with after sanding and buffing.

I can already see it when done! do you have a way to regrind the stabilizer/shoulder? after straightening the cutting edge and possibly light regrind to remove/minimize honewear that stabilizer will be big time in the way for honing. does the 1x30 have a removable guard on top? you might be able to access the wheel. safety is the concern there though, not good to have blades in a position where they can projectile at you! if the 1x30 doesn't work for that id pick up a cheap dremel if you don't have one. the abrasive wheels and other attachments can work wonders when coupled with hand sanding and sandng with backers.