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Thread: Latest custom builds
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07-08-2014, 05:48 PM #21
Thanks. Yes, I used the phrase 'razor shaped object' not to be insulting, but because it looks like a fine razor which is missing a structurally important element that is a key difference between a razor and a knife or microtome (which does have a completely flat grind).
Plain text communication always loses the information that would be present with intonation and body language. A simple phrase like 'that's nice' can be enthusiastic, sarcastic, insulting, bored, and many other things, but by changing the way it is spoken.
In any case, I did not intend to be condescending.Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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07-08-2014, 08:28 PM #22
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07-09-2014, 07:18 PM #23
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Thanked: 11Ok I've just measured the big blade again and with the spine measuring 5mm across and the blade angle starting nearly 6mm from the spine it gives me a ratio of 4.715:1
So why can't I call this a razor? I know it should be between 4:1 & 3.5:1 but it's bloody close. So what structural important element is it missing?? Can someone please explain as I'm begging to feel a bit thick!!Last edited by 3Drew101; 07-09-2014 at 07:31 PM.
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07-09-2014, 07:26 PM #24
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The Following User Says Thank You to ncraigtrn For This Useful Post:
3Drew101 (07-09-2014)
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07-09-2014, 07:34 PM #25
The distance between the lines is the actual blade width. The extra 5mm don't play into the geometry. They're just aesthetic to make the blade appear wider.Last edited by ncraigtrn; 07-09-2014 at 07:37 PM.
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07-09-2014, 07:36 PM #26
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Thanked: 13245Here you go.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...-theories.html
and here
http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...zor-angle.html
There are Google friendly formulas right there and instructions on how to measure accurately
As you can see the target of the Vintage razors was 16° or pretty close but the variance can be up or down from there depending on the Steel Factors and Grinds
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07-09-2014, 08:04 PM #27
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Thanked: 580Well, you certainly have a good eye for style and design. Once you get your geometry issues sorted, you will be on a winner. Don't get discouraged. Everyone who has commented is trying to help. But if you gonna do it, might as well do it right.
Into this house we're born, into this world we're thrown ~ Jim Morrison
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07-09-2014, 08:55 PM #28
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Thanked: 11The thing is the geometry on the other two in this post is spot on but everyone seems to have forgotten about them
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07-09-2014, 10:56 PM #29
There are two elements that affect bevel width - one is geometry and whatever you say, a ratio of 4.7 against a target of nearer 3.5 is a long way off. The second element is the amount of metal behind the bevel - this is where hollow grinding comes into play. Take a look at some hollow ground razors such as Filarmonicas - the metal just above the bevel is almost a straight line. Well to a naked eye it is. That's why the bevel is tiny and yours is not.
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07-09-2014, 11:07 PM #30
Hard to catch a break, eh, Drew? Welcome to my world!
OK. Here we have a gennywine true wedge. A lipshaw microtome blade. (shave with this!)
It is 37mm from top of spine to edge. The spine is 10mm. The frameback that installs to strop and hone is 16mm in diameter. With the frame installed, the width from where the frame contacts the hone to the edge is 30mm. This produces a 1mm bevel (somehow!) . Wot is the angle with the frameback installed?
On your mark, get set, GO!Last edited by sharptonn; 07-10-2014 at 12:41 AM.
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.