Thread: Another Talon, kirinite old denim scales

I made another talon. Actually, this is the 3d. The second met an untimely demise when I decided to give water quenching a try. As it turns out, water quenching a suminagashi razor is not a terribly brilliant idea, on account of it having a tendency to make the sides peel away from the core steel. Working steel is a learning experience

I adjusted my heat treatment methodology and went at it again. Imo, this one is much better than before, because I got the core steel and the contrast layers hardened properly, which means they all etch pure black. The scales are old denim kirinite.

My apologies for the less than indeal lighting on the scales. The batteries on my flash died, and I had to make do with the little built in flash.

Looking good!!!! A number of years ago, one of the guys who was making san mai blades from a carbon steel core and 416 cladding told me that he would put clay just on the spine when quenching, not for some kind of high rise hamon, but to prevent that potential delamination.

very nice, i like the combo of blade design with the scale material. such beautiful steel, at some point down the road i need to play with some fun stuff like this!

Masterful execution

Pretty. I like the look of that one.


Mike

bravo Bruno that's a beautiful blade tc

I think I know someone that is going to be a rally happy camper!
~Richard
not me...drat!

Originally Posted by JDM61

Looking good!!!! A number of years ago, one of the guys who was making san mai blades from a carbon steel core and 416 cladding told me that he would put clay just on the spine when quenching, not for some kind of high rise hamon, but to prevent that potential delamination.

In this case that wouldn't work, because the contrast layers wouldn't harden either.

No i mean just the TOP of the spine. Nothing on the bevels/hollow. As best as I can tell, you are "fixing' the spot where the delimitation is most likely to start. Do you harden the tang/monkey tail or just the blade?

Originally Posted by Bruno

In this case that wouldn't work, because the contrast layers wouldn't harden either.

Originally Posted by JDM61

No i mean just the TOP of the spine. Nothing on the bevels/hollow. As best as I can tell, you are "fixing' the spot where the delimitation is most likely to start. Do you harden the tang/monkey tail or just the blade?

The spine has to harden as well, or the core steel will not etch on the spine.
And the point as well, or it won't etch properly either.
And those places are where delamination is likely.