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Thread: 9/8 "Kami-Cleaver"

  1. #1
    Senior Member silverloaf's Avatar
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    Default 9/8 "Kami-Cleaver"

    One of my more recent Kamisori. 9/8 Western grind in O1, a nice smile and a fun forged finish Fun project!
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    Silverloaf

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    nipper (09-21-2015)

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    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Turned out quite nice! I shall expect delivery next week?
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    Fatty Boom Boom WW243's Avatar
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    If I don't ask this question I'll forget.....when you hone this and the hammered spine is sitting on the hone....wait, you must have hammered it then ground it so the spine was perfectly parallel and while not all of the metal is on the hone (the spine), there is enough to sharpen the blade....If this is too stupid a question, I'll understand if you don't answer.
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    Senior Member silverloaf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WW243 View Post
    If I don't ask this question I'll forget.....when you hone this and the hammered spine is sitting on the hone....wait, you must have hammered it then ground it so the spine was perfectly parallel and while not all of the metal is on the hone (the spine), there is enough to sharpen the blade....If this is too stupid a question, I'll understand if you don't answer.
    not a stupid question at all, thanks for asking! The forging is done prior to heat treat and initial rough hollowing of faces as well is done prior to heat treat. After heat treating I more accurately rough grind the blade faces, taking the edge down to a suitable thickness and then set the bevel to create a flat contact on the spine. I then finish grind the faces and walk the grind up to the spine, all but eliminating the wear i created. the razor lays flat and in plane on the hone at this point and I usually finish hone with one layer of tape so the junction of blade face and hammered spine looks as it does here. Note that not all the metal of the spine needs to sit on the hone, there can be voids in there, but one thing to keep in mind is that a rough texture at that junction can chew up the hone a bit while creating a flat contact point. lightly sanding that area before initial honing can break the hard edges suitably.
    Last edited by silverloaf; 05-23-2015 at 05:48 PM.
    Silverloaf

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    That look nice! Is there a reason for making the edge more half circled than flat across like other straights? New to straights so curious about the edge!

    Thx.

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    silverloaf (05-23-2015)

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    Senior Member blabbermouth tcrideshd's Avatar
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    That is a great looking razor , love a smiling blade and the hole takes some of that tie end weight off , Great execution. Tc
    “ I,m getting the impression that everyone thinks I have TIME to fix their bikes”

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    silverloaf (05-23-2015)

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    Senior Member silverloaf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SirMike View Post
    That look nice! Is there a reason for making the edge more half circled than flat across like other straights? New to straights so curious about the edge!

    Thx.
    my favorite vintage blades are ones with a smiling edge. I find it more maneuverable for my own face. heres a thread and link to some thoughts:
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/begin...ling-edge.html
    Silverloaf

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    Senior Member blabbermouth tcrideshd's Avatar
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    All of the customs I,ve had made are smilers , just can't beat em. Tc
    “ I,m getting the impression that everyone thinks I have TIME to fix their bikes”

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    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
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    Love it!!!!
    Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....

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    silverloaf (05-23-2015)

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    Senior Member ChopperDave's Avatar
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    That's an awesome razor! Great work. I would be a bit nervous to put it to my face though, I think. No that's not true.

    If I had it, I would have to try it.
    silverloaf likes this.
    Smarter than I look or, not as dumb as I look. Whichever you prefer.

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