Thread: 1st actually razor build

You can still have a "shoulderless heel" in a full hollow.

The straight razor - Straight Razor Place Library

Bob

Thanks for posting this .
That's a lovely razor you'veade there

Cheers Paul

Thanks everyone for your comments!

Originally Posted by BobH

It's not a full hollow grind till it does flex. Just ease up on the pressure when honing. Overall it looks good but I am not a fan of that particular heel design and the pinning could use a bit of work. All very minor points though.

Bob

With the pinning, do you mane the edges? I kind of thought that.. I need a smaller hammer. Or do you mean they should be more polished? I kind of like the hammered look, just wondering if you could elaborate. Thanks Bob

Originally Posted by RezDog

Looking at the grind makes me think that you must really be leaning on that blade on the hones if it is flexing very much.

You can see in the picture that blades get ground very very thin. On the full and extra hollow blades the heel is usually stabilized with the type of grind. For a first project it has a very nice and even looking grind, and quite a nice smile. All in all I would say a pretty nice razor.

I didnt feel like I was honing very hard.. But I usually make knives, so I obviously probably was. It was about the bottom 1/4" of the blade I noticed the flex at. Is there a preferred grind that is more sought after than any others? Looking at that chart I feel like the first 3 hollows would be really hard to achieve. Thanks!

Originally Posted by UKRob

Looks good to me - although I'm also not keen on the heel design. Looking at the front view it looks to sit perfectly centre which suggests that the overall shape is spot on. Just one tip that's not been mentioned - it's usual to have a wedge rather than spacer - this helps to create a curve in the scales and allows the tang to sit in the scales without rubbing against the sides of the scales.

Thanks, I ended up sanding 2 brass washers down really thin to keep the scales from touching. Is this a no no? The spacer is tapered slightly, but not nearly enough to curve the scales. It didnt seem to want to sit perfectly straight in there until I finally just decided to peen the pins, then it was pretty bang on, a bit of a sigh of relieve for sure. Thanks again!

Originally Posted by BobH

You can still have a "shoulderless heel" in a full hollow.

The straight razor - Straight Razor Place Library

Bob

Thanks for that link Bob, I will reference that for my next one

I was thinking of a more smooth look to the heads but if the hammered look was what you were aiming for you nailed it. The other point on the pinning was the flat washers. I think domed washers finish off a pinning job better than plain flat ones. Again that is a personal preference and the way vintage razors are pinned, usually.

I don't think there is a general consensus on which is a preferred grind. That would vary on an individual basis, I think. Not being a razor maker I would think the first 3 hollow ground types would be hard to grind without a lot of skill and lead to more rejected blades than with other heavier grinds. I am sure someone who actually does make razor blades can say for sure on that score.

The only thing I have against the reverse curve you did on your shoulderless blade is that it is just another place to cut yourself on a blade point. A point on the toe is enough for me to worry about without having to watch the heel also. Again that is a personal preference and I can't recall seeing any vintage razors with that reverse curve at the heel. If it was useful to have one I think they would have been more common when straight razors were in there heyday.

Bob

Man that thing is beautiful. I wish I had the skill to do that!

Originally Posted by gregg71

Really nice work, congratulations! I especially like the blade's finish. Did you etch it or what causes this color effect?

Yes, it is etched with ferric chloride as part of the finishing steps. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Bruno

Well done. The tang is a little thin for my liking, but that looks like a really fine razor. Well done I say!

Thanks Bruno, The tang itself is 1/4" thick, Or are you meaning top to bottom where you would hold it?

Originally Posted by Martin103

Like others have mentioned, the blade finish looks very nice to me, would prefer a real wedge for the scales and not such a big opening of the scales at the pivot.

Im wondering looking at the spine of the razor as it progresses to the tang, it looks like it gets thicker towards the heel of the razor, may cause some honing problems.
Overall great work!

Hey Martin, Thanks for the input! My next razor will definitely have a better wedge. These scales I think are too thick to flex, so I will have to thin those down as well I assume. As for the spine there is a very slight difference (just enough to barely wiggle a set of calipers) in thickness but only in the very middle, I just came up a little high on the grind on my last grits. Good eye! Thanks again

Originally Posted by ejmolitor37

Great looking razor really like it

Originally Posted by Redcane

Man that thing is beautiful. I wish I had the skill to do that!

thanks!

that is a mean looking razor! great finish on it.

Originally Posted by BobH

A point on the toe is enough for me to worry about without having to watch the heel also. Again that is a personal preference and I can't recall seeing any vintage razors with that reverse curve at the heel. If it was useful to have one I think they would have been more common when straight razors were in there heyday.

Bob

I personally like spike or near spike heels. I find them very useful for cutting the lines around a Van Dyke. All of the razors that I make for myself have spike heels and I've modified several vintage razors for the same. Not saying anyone is right or wrong, just wanted to say that some people do find that heel design useful and desirable.

On the grinds, they are just personal preference, though I have read that the hollow ground razor was considered a major advancement when it was adopted in the early 1900s. Anything more hollow than a quarter hollow requires using wheels of a small enough radius that grinding through the middle of the razor becomes a possibility.

Originally Posted by bluesman7

I personally like spike or near spike heels. I find them very useful for cutting the lines around a Van Dyke. All of the razors that I make for myself have spike heels and I've modified several vintage razors for the same. Not saying anyone is right or wrong, just wanted to say that some people do find that heel design useful and desirable.

Like I said it is not my preference and I find that using either hand where appropriate will place a spike point toe where needed for cutting lines. Certainly people like different things which is natural.

Bob

Like others have mentioned, the blade finish looks very nice to me, would prefer a real wedge for the scales and not such a big opening of the scales at the pivot.

Im wondering looking at the spine of the razor as it progresses to the tang, it looks like it gets thicker towards the heel of the razor, may cause some honing problems.
Overall great work!