Thread: Friodur 72 custom restore

Beautiful work Stefan, sure like the not so shiny blade, well done.

Originally Posted by Martin103

Beautiful work Stefan, sure like the not so shiny blade, well done.

I"m with you Martin, I get so frustrated with the 'Dremel Kings' over polishing blades that Never Ever looked that polished in the beginning.

I just returned a razor to the owner who requested that the 'satin finish' (I used 600 greaseless) be applied to the blade and leave the spine, shank and tail more polished and it looks nice! I'm really loving that look. That's why I'd really like to know what Stefen used as I think it would have added a touch more class to the razor I just finished.

Hey! I'm always willing to learn!

Originally Posted by cudarunner

I"m with you Martin, I get so frustrated with the 'Dremel Kings' over polishing blades that Never Ever looked that polished in the beginning.

I just returned a razor to the owner who requested that the 'satin finish' (I used 600 greaseless) be applied to the blade and leave the spine, shank and tail more polished and it looks nice! I'm really loving that look. That's why I'd really like to know what Stefen used as I think it would have added a touch more class to the razor I just finished.

Hey! I'm always willing to learn!

I dont know what Stefan used, but i can tell you that Wolfpack uses an 800 grit crocus cloth for the blade only and the finish is outstanding.
See it on this thread: http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...30-1850-a.html

Is transferring that emblem the hardest part ?

Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad

Beautiful job-Is that a horn wedge

Smoke acrylic

Originally Posted by cudarunner

Nice work my friend!

What brand of Emery did you use? I've been wanting to play with some but there are some out there that seem to be lacking while others are said to cut better.

Just wondering

I use the one Caswell sells

Originally Posted by Hirlau

Is transferring that emblem the hardest part ?

I have done quite a few so not anymore, it is precision work but as long as the hand is steady no issues.

Originally Posted by cudarunner

I"m with you Martin, I get so frustrated with the 'Dremel Kings' over polishing blades that Never Ever looked that polished in the beginning.

I just returned a razor to the owner who requested that the 'satin finish' (I used 600 greaseless) be applied to the blade and leave the spine, shank and tail more polished and it looks nice! I'm really loving that look. That's why I'd really like to know what Stefen used as I think it would have added a touch more class to the razor I just finished.

Hey! I'm always willing to learn!

I plan on making a mini "how to" thread at some point. Just have to find time to take some WIP pics.
Here is a big 9/8 Herder I did using only wheels up to 600 greaseless. That Herder looked the same as far as finish when I got it, but had some spotting. I left some small pitting in the hollow grind I did not want to mess with it. Unlike with cotton wheels this method allows for much shallower and more uniform scratch pattern, and when done carefully the results are extremely close to factory condition IMO.

Originally Posted by mainaman

Unlike with cotton wheels this method allows for much shallower and more uniform scratch pattern, and when done carefully the results are extremely close to factory condition IMO.

I like that look! :

IF you didn't use cotton wheels what did you use? Done by hand?

My apologies if I missed the tool or method if you mentioned it before.

The only time I ever tried the inlay transfer I gave up. It's like you have to match the contour of the inlay to the contour of the scales. That's very difficult in and of itself. Then to get it to stay in the right spot, and be flush to the scales, is again ridiculously hard. Kudos to those that have figured it out.