Thread: First refurb

I was given this Wade & Butcher Bow from a coworker, so I figured I'd experiment on it. It seems this razor has gone through some changes in its life (looks like someone added crude jimps on the top and bottom, and the shoulder has disappeared). It came to me in ok condition in the rust category, but I never liked the wood handle. So I ordered some camel bone scales that I trimmed up and added the angled ends (don't know if there's a style name for it). I experimented making a brass lined wedge that has changed shape and angles, but tried to keep it as close to the blade as possible. Overall it was a good learning experience that I enjoyed!

-Not sure why some of the pics are upside-down

That looks good especially for a first attempt. Don't think I've ever seen an angle like that on the scales at the pivot end. My one observation would be that the scales might be a little thick. I like me the brass lined wedge.

Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

That looks good especially for a first attempt. Don't think I've ever seen an angle like that on the scales at the pivot end. My one observation would be that the scales might be a little thick. I like me the brass lined wedge.

Thanks. Yes, I was thinking the scales were a bit thick, but I wasn't sure how much I could trim away and was hesitant on thinning them.

I think most people make them thick to begin with. At least I know I did. It doesn't seem like they are till you put it together. It's okay though. You can thin them a lot easier than you can thicken them. Bottom line is if they're not clunky or cumbersome it doesn't really matter.

Yes, scales are a bit thick and may make it clunky in the hand. You could thin by half. I don’t know why that is, but thinner scales seem to give you better control when honing, stropping and shaving.

When fitting the wedge to final shape, do so when it is pinned together. You can get a rough shape, but final fitting is done fully pinned for a seamless fit. It will sand and buff easily.

Once thinned, you can add more taper to the wedge, match the taper on the tang, this will flex the thinned scales and keep the pivot in tension.

Not much you can do with the jimps, other than grind them completely off. Somebody spent a lot of time with a Dremel grinding them in.

You might want to reprofile the heel, the corner is getting sharp. I do like the look of the bone with the black wedge and brass liners. Your pinning looks pretty good for a first-time.

Try some horn for your next rescale, much easier to work.

Hatch-Nice work. I too love camel bone. Most people thin it to around .090 (at which thickness it is still quite strong!), which is about where it will (barely) flex a bit if your wedge angle is not too acute. Keep at it!

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Yes, scales are a bit thick and may make it clunky in the hand. You could thin by half. I don’t know why that is, but thinner scales seem to give you better control when honing, stropping and shaving.

When fitting the wedge to final shape, do so when it is pinned together. You can get a rough shape, but final fitting is done fully pinned for a seamless fit. It will sand and buff easily.

Once thinned, you can add more taper to the wedge, match the taper on the tang, this will flex the thinned scales and keep the pivot in tension.

Not much you can do with the jimps, other than grind them completely off. Somebody spent a lot of time with a Dremel grinding them in.

You might want to reprofile the heel, the corner is getting sharp. I do like the look of the bone with the black wedge and brass liners. Your pinning looks pretty good for a first-time.

Try some horn for your next rescale, much easier to work.

Thanks for the tips! I'm definitely going to try thinning the bone later today. Although I do like the weight of the whole thing.

I have some Bullseye collars I may add instead also (initially I thought they may stick out too much and make it look even bulkier).

I've thought about grinding down the jimps, but was concerned how thin the tang would become visually. I'll also be trying the heel reshaping.

Good job! I find that .060-.080 is a good thickness for bone. I have some Ivory ones that are .054 thick so .060 is still safe. Lol! One thing I can add is using a sharp blade and new good quality sandpaper makes things go more smoothly and give better end results.