Thread: EKS Gold Krone Restoration

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Here are a few pics of my EKS project. Any comments or helpful tips on mistakes made and ways to avoid the mistakes and improve the process would be much appreciated. I chickened out the first time. I thought it's too messed up. But then I thought whatever it is like the only way to learn is to let others comment on it and offer advice and help.
An artisan on the Pipemakers forum whom I highly respect has as his signature: "Fail often, fail early."
Thank you in advance.
Chris
Before

After

The liners and the repair came out nice. Even the wedge is almost there. Just small tweaks with some fine sandpaper including on the pins to give the finish look. All in all! Nice job!

Wow - that looks pretty darn good to me.

Did you repair the original scales or replace them? If it’s a repair, I am very impressed!

OK - I now see the repaired crack in the photo. Still impressed!

Brass liners are something I’ve wanted to try myself. Any suggestions?

I think, for the most part you can call it a full success. The wedge looks a little flat, but if the scales maintain tension throughout the entire range, it is correct. The washer are always tricky to get polished before pinning, keeping them pretty and not messing them up during the pinning. Also if your hammer is very polished, it leaves a cleaner, more polished peen on the pins. All super minor observations.

You can also polish and shape the pin heads and collars by applying a good metal polish on a folded terrycloth, heavy cotton towel, or leather, then briskly rub the razor on the towel or leather, with the pinned collared razor.

It is easier to pre- polish collars prior to pinning. You can make a mandrel with a small screw or bolt and nut, then chuck in a hand drill, drill press or Dremel and buff on polish charged cloth or leather.

Foam nail files also work well for shaping pins, many are diamond impregnated and are inexpensive.

Next time try to match the taper angle to the tang angle, make the wedge thinner, and the scales also when using a backer.

Try doming the collars. You can make a doming dapping block with a ball bearing and piece of hard wood, to dome your collars.

They will look more finished and will keep the pins under tension. Watch how the scales flex while opening and closing, it is not any wonder why pins loosen over time. It is also probably why most vintage razor makers used domed collars of one sort, even slightly domed collars offer some flexing and compression.

Sand the inside of the scales over a cookie sheet, to save the dust, then fill the cracks with the fine dust and dab on a few drops of CA glue. Sand flush for an invisible crack repair. It may take more than one application. CA kicker will speed up the repair. Look at some of Outback’s seamless crack repairs.

Nice save, be careful, it is addicting...

Hi Guys thanks for the comments, Rez, I keep the hammer polished and I polish it up before every pinning but I need to practice peening the pins with outward taps. I redid that wedge a few times and finally got frustrated and left that one in place.
Dave, this is what I used. A jewellery saw and a cutting platform I made from a used piece of 1"x3". It took about 3 minutes to make. I put it in my vise, I don't know if that is correct but it worked for me. I started with #3/0 61 TPI but it was too fine and way too slow and besides I was breaking blades like crazy. Then I changed to #1 48 TPI and that was the charm. Tedious but it worked out.
I used 3 in 1 oil to lube the blade. Here are a few pics. The 61 TPI blades were so fine these old eyes couldn't even see the teeth with the naked eye and barely under my cheap mag glass. An FYI - make sure your blades are mounted in your jewelers saw correctly with the teeth pointing down. I know you all know this but it's easy to get confused (well I do anyway) and mount them upside down. Total time cutting the brass about 6 hours.
Hope this helps.
Kindly

That’s the same type of board and cut out that I use. The trick with the jewelry saw seems to me to be very low pressure and a high stroke count. The blades are very fragile. It take a bit of practise to use it quickly and not whistle through the blades.

I also try to use as much of the blade as possible with long strokes.

I guess that you are left handed from the second V on the left side of your board.

Tim, you are right. I'm a southpaw.