Thread: Aug Voss Restoration

Here are some pics of my Aug Voss restoration. This is for one of my two sons-in-Law. They both became interested in shaving with a straight razor so I restored a 5/8" Artraco for my first son-in-Law; and this 6/8" Aug Voss for son-in-law two. He didn't want the original scales (which I put in my parts drawer to be forever forgotten and lost) and so I showed him a bunch of recon stone and let him choose.

So anyway, this is the finished product. I finally realized something that was floating around in the back of my mind concerning wedges.

I searched the Wikki and read what I could find. But I had a light bulb moment, it might just be a 60watt light bulb, but at least I managed to recognize it when it flashed in the musty confines of my cerebral cortex.

Wedges are not right angle triangles nor are they isosceles triangles: they are (please correct me if I am wrong) equilateral triangles! And therefore need both sides of the wedge to be worked. I was just working one side of the wedge on the belt. This wedge is the last of the one side only wedges, I promise.
All comments and critique welcome as to errors made and the best way to correct the errors.
Kind regards
Chris

I rough fit a wedge and leave it square, then mock it all together to make sure it all works.then I shape the wedge in the scales, and then make my finish finish on the wedge end of the scales and the wedge together. Sometimes I remove the blade before I do the final shaping of the wedge. If I remove the blade I mock the pivot end with a simple block the same size as the tang of the razor. Very dull blades I don’t mind doing the wedge with the blade in, even remotely sharp blades I take out.

Thanks Rez, great information. Will cut, past, print and pin to my workshop wall.
Oops, my geometry is all messed up. Isosceles...

Originally Posted by RezDog

I rough fit a wedge and leave it square, then mock it all together to make sure it all works.then I shape the wedge in the scales, and then make my finish finish on the wedge end of the scales and the wedge together. Sometimes I remove the blade before I do the final shaping of the wedge. If I remove the blade I mock the pivot end with a simple block the same size as the tang of the razor. Very dull blades I don’t mind doing the wedge with the blade in, even remotely sharp blades I take out.

Rez, How do you shape the wedge in the scales? I don't understand what you mean.

Im sure what he is saying is he makes it a wedge but its large. Sticks out on the sides. This is what i do too. Get the wedge shape and be sure the sides that are between the scales are flat flat flat! Bolt the wedge between the scales, then finish shaping the wedge end of the scales and wedge as one. This makes for a very smooth acurate looking wedge. I do take mine apart a few times before its finished. But if you do, be sure to mark one side of the wedge as it is never so perfect it can be put in either way.

I also have some broken blades that i salvaged the tangs from. This allows me to bolt the scales together with the mock-up tangs to get things right. Easier and safer that with the actual blade. Remember, you already have the length figured out at this time. You just need something in the pivot to hold the proper shape/angle. I have 3 mock-up tangs of different thicknesses. This idea came from Glen. He has lots of tricks that help.

Remember your wedge should be the same angle at the tang. Measure just in front of the hole of your tang. That should be the thickest part of your wedge. Measure back towards the tail the length of your wedge on the tang and make that thickness the thin part of your wedge. After you have done a few it doesnt need to be that accurate but this is what your shooting for.

Originally Posted by Gasman

Im sure what he is saying is he makes it a wedge but its large. Sticks out on the sides. This is what i do too. Get the wedge shape and be sure the sides that are between the scales are flat flat flat! Bolt the wedge between the scales, then finish shaping the wedge end of the scales and wedge as one. This makes for a very smooth acurate looking wedge. I do take mine apart a few times before its finished. But if you do, be sure to mark one side of the wedge as it is never so perfect it can be put in either way.

I also have some broken blades that i salvaged the tangs from. This allows me to bolt the scales together with the mock-up tangs to get things right. Easier and safer that with the actual blade. Remember, you already have the length figured out at this time. You just need something in the pivot to hold the proper shape/angle. I have 3 mock-up tangs of different thicknesses. This idea came from Glen. He has lots of tricks that help.

Remember your wedge should be the same angle at the tang. Measure just in front of the hole of your tang. That should be the thickest part of your wedge. Measure back towards the tail the length of your wedge on the tang and make that thickness the thin part of your wedge. After you have done a few it doesnt need to be that accurate but this is what your shooting for.

Thank you for the info. I was finishing my scales first and trying to match things up and it always looked a mess. This is really helpful information.
Thank you again.

Thats what we are here for. Now if your doing a CA finish it makes it more difficult. Becuase you want it finished then CA then sanding the CA can cause things to get out of whack. It just takes practice. A wedge it such a little thing. But for it to work right and look good can be a PITA to get right at first.