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Thread: Late nite, and working on an old Oxford

  1. #11
    Senior Member RaymondMillbrae's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    Also, if you sand with a backer you will get a flatter, more even finish, and it is way easier on your fingers.

    I use a wine cork with a 3x3 piece of 6mm craft foam wrapped around it an a 3x3 piece of sandpaper wrapped around the foam.

    If you cut your sandpaper 3x3 you can get 4, fresh sides to sand with and get maximum use from the paper, and a way faster and better finish.
    I use 1”x2”x1/2” erasers.
    outback likes this.

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    A padded wine cork is about 1.5 inches thick, much easier on the hands. Cutting the paper square allows you to rotate the paper for a fresh cutting surface.

    The convex surface allows much better contact for sanding from spine to edge and side to side, heel to toe. Alternating your sanding direction speeds up the process and gives a more uniform finish.

    If you do a lot of hand sanding, you look for every advantage.

  3. #13
    Senior Member RaymondMillbrae's Avatar
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    Okay, now it’s time to finish this blade. (I just finished my Wade & Butcher).

    I’ve restored this Oxford blade to where I like it’s roughish look, and I’ve also placed a rough edge on it. (Which was fine).

    Now I’m designing scales for it.

    It’s an early 1900’s blade.

    Which wood do you think I should choose!

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    Last edited by RaymondMillbrae; 11-29-2020 at 11:14 PM.

  4. #14
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    IMO, I vote for the Zebra, but you can't skimp on the width of the scales. Meaning you need a little room to show the grain.
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

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