Results 21 to 27 of 27
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01-31-2021, 08:36 PM #21
He's got a couple posts on it, in the workshop thread, "what are you working on". ( within the last two years )
But I can tell you how he taught me.
He said....just pin it, you sissy. U can always unpin it, if it isn't going right, and try again.
Practice, practice, practice.!
The more you do it, the better you'll get.
Pinning together popsicle sticks, is good practiceMike
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01-31-2021, 09:58 PM #22
- Join Date
- Feb 2020
- Location
- Red Deer, Alberta
- Posts
- 246
Thanked: 10Thanks man!
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01-31-2021, 10:00 PM #23
- Join Date
- Feb 2020
- Location
- Red Deer, Alberta
- Posts
- 246
Thanked: 10
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02-01-2021, 10:54 AM #24
Some guys tape it all together before pinning to hold it all straight. I like to be able to move and adjust the pieces while pinning. IMO, cutting off the final length is the hardest part. Too long and your filing it down too much and take a chance of nicking the scales. Too little and the peen looks bad and might not hold. Practice is the way to do it. Just do it over and over. It come to you.
It's just Sharpening, right?
Jerry...
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02-01-2021, 04:55 PM #25
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Diamond Bar, CA
- Posts
- 6,553
Thanked: 3215I find it is better to cut it long. I peen the first side in a Jacobs chuck. I develop a nice peen, pretty much the size you are going for. Make sure to have the collar installed on this side, or the pin can bulge and you wont get it on. If you just lightly peen you do not need a collar yet.
Then put it in the razor with the collars and file the other side down leaving it a little long. As you peen you can adjust the size if the peen is too large or the pin too long, (file the head ) the peens will not come together.
Once you have a peen on both sides you can alternate sides to even the pins up. A divot in your anvil helps to hold the razor in place.
I buff the pins smooth and round on the buffer with Green Stainless compound, so if I nick the scale it will buff out. Pin the wedge side first, I leave the wedge long and trim when pinned tight with a file or sander, then buff smooth. This way you get a super tight seamless wedge fit.
Once you have a peen on both sides of the wedge side I wedge a rubber eraser between the scales to hold them in the proper angle, otherwise they flop down and get in the way.
Have taught a few guys to pin with popsicle sticks. Pint 3 sticks, the middle acts as the blade. Sticks are unforgiving and will crack if you miss or peen too tight.
It really is much easier than it looks.
Make a post if you need help. A polished ball on you hammer helps as does doming and polishing your hammer face. A Dremel drum and sand paper will make quick work of it.
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02-02-2021, 02:01 AM #26
I can't find it now but I posted about this somewhere. I put collar shaped divots in my pinning block various depths and sizes for different collars. I also put a 5/64 hole in my pinning block about 1/8 inch deep to put the pin in while pinning the first side and put it all together with the collars on and the pin in the hole in the block. I then cut the rod as close as possible and peen that one side then turn it over and put the peened side collars in the proper divot. Holding it tight against the block I cut the pin as close as possible to the collar with a side cutter, then pin the second side. It's important to leave as little pin as possible above the collars, especially on the second side. Otherwise the pin will bend.
I'll look some more because I had photos with it also and the visual helps.Iron by iron is sharpened, And a man sharpens the face of his friend. PR 27:17
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02-02-2021, 01:28 PM #27
One word of caution about the divots in the block. If it is too deep for the domed pin and collar you can damage the scale. If it is the right size though it helps keep it nice and domed.
Iron by iron is sharpened, And a man sharpens the face of his friend. PR 27:17