Thread: Frameback #3

Actually, Charlie did both a type of press fit plus epoxy. Along the top edge of the blade he put in some "dimples' and also squeezed almost closed the frame. The blade then "popped" into the frame which had some epoxy in it. It is a strong joint.

I will be posting a thread about Charlies visit to my place tomorrow.

The hammering makes for an interference fit along portions of the blade, it does not make a perfect seal. The epoxy prevents water from wicking between the blade and frame. It is to prevent rust and for sanitary reasons.


Charlie

Originally Posted by spazola

The hammering makes for an interference fit along portions of the blade, it does not make a perfect seal. The epoxy prevents water from wicking between the blade and frame. It is to prevent rust and for sanitary reasons.


Charlie

Well with a good press fit that shouldn't be an issue but getting a nice uniform .0005" interference might not be possible with out many more tools.

So that you have the gap be just that much smaller than the blade(and then the blade needs to have tolerances on that level as well)

Being a bit of a half assed blacksmith, engineer and machinist, I think a lot about these things.

I was also wondering about solder or brazing

I know brazing/silver solder would be too hot. A soft solder w flux could lead to corrosion issues and still the temp would be beyond tempering. And with either of those you still need a gap. With a quick enough torch and heat sink it'd likely work

I wonder if the frame would make a strong enough magnet- Then you could supply disposable blades

Spazola Charlie Your razors are way cool

Originally Posted by kevint

I know brazing/silver solder would be too hot. A soft solder w flux could lead to corrosion issues and still the temp would be beyond tempering. And with either of those you still need a gap. With a quick enough torch and heat sink it'd likely work

I have been thinking on this more(looking at how Spazola made that and reading Girl Genious straight through in the same week put vissions of steampunk razors dancing in my head)

Anyway, I think you might be able to at least prevent the edge from heating up unacceptably by clamping to say 3/4" peices of aluminum onto the blade while sodering.

They should soak up the heat before the edge gets too hot.

I have looked at both brass rods for a frame and .050" 1095 blue tempered shim stock for a blade(I do wonder if I would need to heat treat that or not)

Originally Posted by PonderingTurtle

I have been thinking on this more(looking at how Spazola made that and reading Girl Genious straight through in the same week put vissions of steampunk razors dancing in my head)

Anyway, I think you might be able to at least prevent the edge from heating up unacceptably by clamping to say 3/4" peices of aluminum onto the blade while sodering.

That is a heat sink

They should soak up the heat before the edge gets too hot. If not sink the blade in a potato or daikon

I have looked at both brass rods for a frame and .050" 1095 blue tempered shim stock for a blade(I do wonder if I would need to heat treat that or not)

probably needs HT

Originally Posted by kevint

probably needs HT

Quite possibly, but it is not soft but hardened to a specific level to start with, I am just not sure if it is hard enough or not.

As my coal forge is likely very much wrong for heat treating it, it would mean buying and building a furnace

As for sodering, you could also preheat the frame so you only have to heat up the thin material of the blade.

It should be quite possible to soder a blade in a frame back.

Originally Posted by PonderingTurtle

... I have looked at both brass rods for a frame and .050" 1095 blue tempered shim stock for a blade(I do wonder if I would need to heat treat that or not)

Yes and no. The blue or black tempered shim stock is Rc 45 from the factory. Spazola managed to shave successfully for a few weeks at Rc 50, but it would just feel right to heat it up and quench it to get it a little harder.

Originally Posted by Mike Blue

Yes and no. The blue or black tempered shim stock is Rc 45 from the factory. Spazola managed to shave successfully for a few weeks at Rc 50, but it would just feel right to heat it up and quench it to get it a little harder.

I had no idea at what it was tempered to and am going to have to put this off for at least until janurary so I did not see much benefit in measureing the hardness at work now, instead of later, if I could not get a real answer as to how hard it was.

So I would need to heat treat it in some fashion.

Originally Posted by Mike Blue

Y Spazola managed to shave successfully for a few weeks at Rc 50, but it would just feel right to heat it up and quench it to get it a little harder.

I used the razor that came out at Rc 50 this morning. It was a bit tuggy, it had about two weeks use since the last refresh. Two weeks seems to be the limit before it needs refreshing. The good news is, that it is easy to refresh. I did 25 on flexcut gold, 50 on boron carbide 1.8, 50 on linen then 50 on plain leather. All of this was on hanging strops. The resulting shave was very smooth.

I know all of this goes against prevailing wisdom, but it works for me. I really like pasted hanging strops. I also like the feel of the 1.8 boron carbide for the final abrasive.

I am not saying that I do not want to improve my heat treating process. I am just saying that the soft deformable blade refreshes easily.

Charlie