Thread: Genco in Ironwood (My First)

That's a great looking razor, and a nice restoration job.

It's always good to see a Genco ready for action. What model Genco is yours, by the way?

Originally Posted by PDobson

Ha. I took it camping last week.

I was right!

Originally Posted by mrbhagwan

It's always good to see a Genco ready for action. What model Genco is yours, by the way?

It's a B2. Do you know anything about it?

Great looking scales, great job, keep it up

Originally Posted by PDobson

It's a B2. Do you know anything about it?

The charter member of the Genco Pura razor club, Shuredgefan, mentions the B-2 here, but to be honest with you, I hadn't heard of it until I was searching the site to try to answer your question.

Joe Chandler may still own one as well. Sorry I don't have more information for you.

Why not post a picture of it in the Genco Pura club, if you haven't already. It'd make a fine addition!

Great first work. I really like how you inset those screws. looks good. I like the satin finish on the blade as well.

Red

You make knives huh????

Originally Posted by gssixgun

You make knives huh????

So far it's mostly custom handles on production knives. I have made a few knives for friends and family. I'm getting a grinder soon so I won't have to do as much filing . Hopefully I'll have a new batch (including a razor) done by Christmas.

Originally Posted by Philadelph

The tang on razors SHOULD be tapered like that. The "wedge spacer" was traditionally (and in my mind still should be) an actual wedge, not just a parallel sided piece. The wedge should create a flex in the scales so that the scales, when coming back together at the pivot, follow the taper of the tang. There are a bunch of reasons for this which I won't go into (it's been posted before) but namely a parallel spacer creates more stress on the scales in more spots which causes problems down the line.

Originally Posted by PDobson

Interesting.

The wedge I use is tapered because the scales need to be wider at the pivot than at the edge so that the blade stops on the scales. There is zero flex in the scales themselves. The material is too stiff. To provide clearance for the shoulders, I sculpted the inside of the scales. There is no flexing stress whatsoever in the scales. I see why it was done the other way with the thin plastic scales. It is definitely easier to mass-produce using that method.

If I were to redo the blade and scales, I would slightly taper the tang to match the (straight) taper of the handle. I would leave the area under the pivot perfectly parallel. I would then carve the scales themselves with a taper and recess for the shoulders, leaving the pivot area perfectly parallel. The result would be perfectly smooth operation with no handle stresses. I don't like the idea of keeping wood under constant flex.

Your answers here, gave you away as a knife maker....
What Alex was pointing out is the way razors are made, and like he said there are reasons... If you actually spend a little time looking at how they put vintage straights together there is quite a bit to learn... The scale were flexed for a few reasons none of which were because they were thin plastic, and it was easier for mass production... There is quite a bit of info in the Wiki and in the razor clubs like some of the guys were saying, about why things were done certain ways....
With the tapered tang and non flexing scales either the scales or the pins will give out, but since you used the torx the pins should be good I would imagine that the scales are rather thick if they don't flex which will probably lend to a scale heavy balance... I could be wrong but since there are no top or bottom pics I don't know for sure... I would be interested to see either of those angles to see the relief cuts that you did on the insides of the scales though... Beautiful work on the steel from what I can see, did you re-drill the pivot hole to fit the screws???

I'm definitely at a disadvantage in that this is the only razor I've really handled so far. I'm keeping my eyes out for other good deals, though.

The scales are much heavier than the old ones. I like the way they fit my hand. I might just have to make another set that is thinner to try it out the traditional way.

The finish on the blade was done entirely by hand with sandpaper backed with flexible metal. I only took it to 1200x. I did have to re-drill the pivot hole. The stock pin was only about 1/16" diameter, and the hole wasn't even close to round (I don't know what was going on there). The new pivot is 1/8" hardened stainless. I'm not worried about wearing it out.