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  1. #11
    Senior Member PLanzaSr1957's Avatar
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    Gorgeous! I want to learn to restore them like you!

    In time......

    PS, I looked in the acronyms and couldn't find "CA". In my experience as a radio control "model flyer" it means Cyano Acrilate (sp?) - which is that "super" [instant adhesion] glue. Is that a correct assumption for YOUR USE of the "CA" in your post? Thanks for the answer, in advance!

  2. #12
    Senior Member rrp1501's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLanzaSr1957 View Post
    Gorgeous! I want to learn to restore them like you!

    In time......

    PS, I looked in the acronyms and couldn't find "CA". In my experience as a radio control "model flyer" it means Cyano Acrilate (sp?) - which is that "super" [instant adhesion] glue. Is that a correct assumption for YOUR USE of the "CA" in your post? Thanks for the answer, in advance!
    Thanks for the kind words! I love to restore straight razors, but there are other guys like gssixguns, max. just to name two. They are they true experts. I hope to some day be able to restore a straight as they do! You are correct, CA is short for Cyanoacrilate. I usually put on a layer of Medium CA then sand it down with sandpaper from 180-3000 grit, then another layer, and another sometimes up to 15 or 20 layers, depending on the condition of the scales. Make sure you use gloves when doing this. I usually use the cut off fingertips of gloves I'm about to throw away, so I don't destroy a good glove. Make sure you take your time and don't rush it, because it will show in the end product. Good Luck and God Bless!

  3. #13
    Senior Member PLanzaSr1957's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rrp1501 View Post
    Thanks for the kind words! I love to restore straight razors, but there are other guys like gssixguns, max. just to name two. They are they true experts. I hope to some day be able to restore a straight as they do! You are correct, CA is short for Cyanoacrilate. I usually put on a layer of Medium CA then sand it down with sandpaper from 180-3000 grit, then another layer, and another sometimes up to 15 or 20 layers, depending on the condition of the scales. Make sure you use gloves when doing this. I usually use the cut off fingertips of gloves I'm about to throw away, so I don't destroy a good glove. Make sure you take your time and don't rush it, because it will show in the end product. Good Luck and God Bless!
    Thank YOU for the reply, Ramon! I am remembering that you once said if I want to ever part with my HESS #1 you'd be the man to take her off my hands. Not ready yet. But just wanted to tell you I didn't forget your offer.

    That said I have some newer MICARTA scales I just purchased. They have been finish sanded but I don't think they are "sealed" as yet - which is why I asked about the CA. I may try sealing them using that CA method you have. I have never heard of that method before. I really appreciate the advice on safety too. I would be embarrassed if I glued my fingers together (HA!).

    I have made fishing poles in the past (from scratch, using "blank" rod/s) and we use a coating for the thread that covers the line "guides" called "FlexCoat". You might give it a try as well. NO SANDING AT ALL!! And it leaves an impervious, coating of clear high gloss material on whatever you brush it on and it too self-levels. Although in rod-making one needs to keep the rod turning so it levels evenly. That's a nice trick we do using a BBQ rotisserie motor.

    Anyway, thank you for the answer. Same to you with the blessings!

    ~Phil
    Last edited by PLanzaSr1957; 04-20-2010 at 07:29 PM.

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Great to see one restored with the original scales. Best of both worlds, like new with the original equipment.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  5. #15
    They call me Mr Bear. Stubear's Avatar
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    Lovely job, and really great that you were able to keep the original scales!


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