Thread: Jackson, Garanti 383 in Lignum Vitae

I know that this is an old thread, but I've been looking up information on how to work lignum vitae, came across this razor, and i have to say, that it is beautiful, and is part of what inspired me to attempt to make one myself.

I also have a question: when you were working with this wood, how did you prevent it from warping/cupping after you had cut it so thin? I am planning on making some replacement scales for my current razor.

I've heard that dense woods, and LV in particular have a tendency to warp when cut thin, and I'm worried.

I have a 1 13/16 x 1 13/16 x 6 in blank that I want to make the scales out of.

I can fit both scales on one face of the blank, so I was thinking that I could saw the 2 halves apart right after removing one face about 3/16ish deep.

I'm hoping to avoid putting a finish on it, to preserve the smell (it's almost addictive, a sort of mix between vanilla and untreated leather), but if it's not worth the risk, I'll finish it no questions asked.

Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I'll also put this in a separate thread if it gets too lengthy, but I was hoping to get the attention of gssixgun, seeing that the above razor turned out so well, and maybe with some expert advice, I can pull off something pretty good as well.

all help is greatly appreciated, Thank you.

The issue with working with not only LV but most any wood is how you receive it, or how you season and dry the wood yourself..

As Clint Eastwood's famous movie quote goes "A man needs to know his limitations" one of mine is I don't deal with drying wood, I find a trusted supplier and leave that to them

I target 1/8" (.125) cutting the slabs, as you can see on this and most any I do in any material, I try and Bookmatch them I think that is a good indicator of attention to detail, that is JMHO others like the varied graining on both sides...
Measured out, my scales fall from about .90" to about .115" after I finish thinning them up,,,, the LV has more than enough strength to be worked thin...

LV does not really NEED finish as it is one of the most naturally waterproof woods there is, I however am a true "wet shaver" I get everything wet from the Mirror to the Floor so I have always overdone that aspect on all my builds, the Teak Oil worked well on this one and the Daly's Seafin that I now use in my Vacuum Chamber works even better, but again that is a personal choice based on how I shave

The easiest way to test your wood, is to do just that, cut a slab and try and get it thin, at least down to 1/8 and set it out of the way in the Bathroom, check it after 1 week and see how badly it warped, that will give you a worst case scenario to judge it by...

Good Luck with your build and feel free to ask more questions

Nice razor Glen. I love working with that wood ... and you scored a really nice piece.

Thank you for the responding so quickly! I think I'll go for the bookmatching. I agree that it would serve the overall look better. Also you have a very good point about drying, I know almost nothing about it

but as onother question does being waxed indicate anything about the state of the wood that you know of? The entire block is covered in a good even coat.

I asked the seller a few days back, but if the don't get back to me within the next few days, I think I'll just do as you suggested, and saw off a slab, and see how it goes!

Thanks again! Love this place lol

If it is waxed,it is most likly not dry.

The bookmatch Lignum Vitae is always beautiful. One of the nicer light colored hardwoods.

Thanks Glen.

Setting the standards again there Glen
Nice work

Here are two slabs I just cut for a member,it will sit, clamped for no less than two weeks,it will be dead flat when shipped.