Robeson in black and red.

[theeditor]

Simple black and red. Homemade micarta (envirotex). SS washers, nickel silver pin.

Enjoy.
Bruce

[Catrentshaving]

Good lookin razor there. Nice work

[Str8Raz0r]

Nice work on the micarta. The red wedge with the black scales looks good.

[theeditor]

Thanks much. It took a lot of batches to get the micarta right. I'm still not perfectly happy with it but much more so than I was.

This has to be hands down the best shaving razor i've used yet. either that or I've found my honing streak. Hated to give this away.

Thanks.

[RayCover]

Nice Job. I like the shape of the scales and the double pins in the wedge end. Personally, I think I would have kept the hammered texture on the shank/tang. I think the contrast between the textures would have been fairly attractive. Still made a nice looking razor.

Ray

[theeditor]

Nice Job. I like the shape of the scales and the double pins in the wedge end. Personally, I think I would have kept the hammered texture on the shank/tang. I think the contrast between the textures would have been fairly attractive. Still made a nice looking razor.

Ray

I really wanted to. I just couldn't figure out how to effectively sand in the divots and it was pitted. I love the texture and plan to use that in the future..

[RayCover]

To keep that texture you can strip the rust chemically. You can use naval jelly or bluing stripper to remove the rust. I would leave the pits as part of the texture. Then dip it in baking soda solution to neutralize the acids. Then rinse it clean.

At that point the rust would be gone and you would be back to a neutral steel surface. It would probably be a good idea to coat it with WD-40 and let it set overnight to make sure and pull any moisture away from the surface of the steel. Should be ready to go at that point.

Sometimes the acids in the rust/bluing strippers can turn the rust black as it neutralizes it. If that happens you can dip it in paint prep acid to take it back to white. If you like the darker antiqued color you can dip it in ferric chloride and that will leave a darker finish. Then you an burnish or lightly sand off he surface and get an antiqued sort of look to the whole area and camouflage in the pits so they can't be noticed.

Ray

[theeditor]

To keep that texture you can strip the rust chemically. You can use naval jelly or bluing stripper to remove the rust. I would leave the pits as part of the texture. Then dip it in baking soda solution to neutralize the acids. Then rinse it clean.

At that point the rust would be gone and you would be back to a neutral steel surface. It would probably be a good idea to coat it with WD-40 and let it set overnight to make sure and pull any moisture away from the surface of the steel. Should be ready to go at that point.

Sometimes the acids in the rust/bluing strippers can turn the rust black as it neutralizes it. If that happens you can dip it in paint prep acid to take it back to white. If you like the darker antiqued color you can dip it in ferric chloride and that will leave a darker finish. Then you an burnish or lightly sand off he surface and get an antiqued sort of look to the whole area and camouflage in the pits so they can't be noticed.

Ray

Thanks. I have naval jelly but wasnt sure how to get rid of the black that it leaves. Will the naval jelly harm an etching?

[RayCover]

IF you talking about logos and names etched int eh shank, as long as you don't leave it on any longer than needed to remove the rust you should not see any appreciable deterioration of the original etch. That is, as long as the original etching is deep enough to be more than just changing the color on the surface.

Ray

[medicevans]

Tell us more about the micarta. My envirotex hasn't come out nearly as nice yet.